Search Results

These puppies are available for adoption. They are looking for their forever homes. They will be marked reserved once purchased. Available Puppies For more images of each puppy, please visit our Gallery Page. Males Females Reserved Percy Jackson Born March 23rd Percy is a medium sized boy. He is a Black and White Parti. We expect him to end up in the 35-45 pound range. Ready to Go home May 18th Available Apollo Born March 23rd Apollo is a medium sized boy. He is a Blue Merle, White Parti. We expect him to end up in the 40-45 pound range. Ready to Go home May 18th Available Zeus Born March 23rd Zeus is a medium sized boy. He is a Blue Merle . We expect him to end up in the 40-50 pound range. Ready to Go home May 18th Available Nyx Born March 23rd Nyx is a medium sized girl. She is a Black and White Parti. We expect her to end up in the 40-50 pound range. Ready to Go home May 18th Reserved Theia Born March 23rd Theia is a medium sized girl. She is an Apricot and White Parti. We expect her to end up in the 40-50 pound range. Ready to Go home May 18th Reserved Aurora Born March 23rd Aurora is a medium sized girl. She is a Blue Merle. We expect her to end up in the 35-45 pound range. Ready to Go home May 18th Available Orion Born March 23rd Orion is a big medium sized boy. He is a Blue Merle White Parti. We expect him to end up in the 45-55 pound range. He is the biggest pup in the litter. Ready to Go home May 18th Available Athena Born March 23rd Athena is a medium sized girl. She is a Tri-Colored Blue Merle. We expect her to end up in the 35-40 pound range. Ready to Go home May 18th Available Iris Born March 23rd Iris is a medium sized girl. She is a Partial Tri-Colored Blue Merle and White Parti. We expect her to end up in the 35-45 pound range. Ready to Go home May 18th

Greek/Roman Mythology Litter. Availabe Bernedoodle puppies. Mythology Litter Females Males

Whimsy Doodles is a small in home breeder of quality, healthy Bernedoodle puppies. Parents are health tested. Puppies go home dewormed, with first vaccinations and microchipped. We will be adding Sheepadoodles to our program in the future. Mini/Moyen Bernedoodle Breeders About Us About Me Welcome to Whimsy Doodles. We are a family breeder of mini/moyen (medium) sized Bernedoodles ranging from 35-55lbs. (although genetics can be complicated and sometimes a puppy can be smaller or larger than predicted. We make no guarantees on sizes.) We are located in Eastern Nebraska. Our puppies are raised with love in our home around children of different ages as well as with other dogs. All of our dogs live in our family home. We take great care in raising our puppies to ensure they have both good health and temperaments. We begin socialization with all puppies at 2 days old. This is done using ENS and Puppy Culture Programs.This means they are exposed to new and different things to produce a well developed puppy. It helps to reduce fear and anxiety, encourages problem solving, aids in socialization, communication between you and your dog, behavior training, and aggression prevention. All Parents are health tested for diseases common to these breeds. We prioritize finding the perfect match for each puppy with their new family. All puppies start on potty training and start learning basic skills preparing them for their new homes. Our Breeding program has been vetted and approved to be a part of the Good Dog Program. This is a safe and secure website to protect both the breeder and the buyer as well as make secure payments. We also accept payments via cash and Zelle. https://my.gooddog.com/whimsy-doodles-nebraska

Our Puppy Adoption Process Ready to take the final steps and bring home your forever companion? Items your New Puppy will come home with. All puppies will come with their first shots, dewormed, microchipped and will be looked over by our vet before leaving. We offer a limited 1 year health guarantee.We will be sending home a care package with each of our puppies as well. This package includes: * A reusable Whimsy Doodle tote bag. * A binder with all of your paperwork, vet documents and some educational information. * Dew Claws Removed by licensed DVM *Vet exam *Vaccinations- First set *First Heartworm chewable- One single monthly dose. *Two probiotic packets- When puppies go home it is very stressful on them. To help, we give probiotics for gut health. This also helps if you switch their food from what we feed. * Dewormed every two weeks from birth. *Food- A 2 Gallon bag of puppy food will be provided so you can slowly introduce your own food. It will be a mixture of the two foods I feed. * A fleece blanket- (pre-washed) that has been with your puppy's mom and liter mates for their scent. This helps with the initial transition to your home. *A Microchip- The paperwork to add your information to your puppy's microchip will be inside of your binder. *Two new puppy toys- A small Kong for made for a puppy and A Kong brand tough stuffed animal. (**Always observe your puppy while playing with any toy.) *Poop Bags. One full container of Poop Bags for your trip home. *A Potty Pad or two- to place your puppy on during the trip home. *Snuggle Puppy- Each puppy will have their own stuffed snuggle puppy that provides warmth and comfort while soothing your little one.These can aid you in crate training your puppy by reducing barking, whining and nervousness. Each of them includes a heart that provides a real-feel heart beat with 2 different modes. They also come with a disposable warming pack. *Treats- One package of Puppy Treats so you can begin your new puppy's training right away. They are Soft Puppy bites, Lamb & Salmon recipe, from Wellness. This is the same brand as the food I provide. *Puppy teether- I include a couple of Yak chews that help exercise your puppy mentally as well as helping with teething. We give these to our puppies as soon as their puppy teeth are in. Our Process After filling out our application, upon approval, we require a non-refundable deposit to hold your puppy. This will be accepted only when we receive a signed Deposit Contract. We do also require a Signed Health Contract before your puppy can go home with you at 8 weeks of age. (We reserve the right to hold puppies longer if it is needed for any reason.) We are dedicated to ensuring that our puppies are placed in loving, responsible homes where they can thrive and bring joy to their new families.

Bernedoodle Prices. Tricolor, Merle, Tricolor Merle, Parti, Solid Color, Black and White, Apricot and White Pricing Our puppies are competitively priced. We offer a quality, healthy puppy for less than other puppies offered of similiar quality. The prices of each puppy may be different based on colors that are more rare or harder to produce. We reserve the right to Increase or Decrease these prices.(this will always be done before the sale of a puppy) Merles & Tri-Color Merles $2,500 Tri-Colors, Phantoms, Sables $2,200 All Other Colors $2,000

Females Males Disney Litter Contact Me

These are the necessary things you will need to raise a puppy. Recommended Items for your New Puppy & Things your new Puppy will come home with. (not everything shown on this page will be sent home by us, many are just recommendations.) Top Grooming Products We Recommend And Use Ourselves. Cowboy Magic Shine In Yellow-out Purple Shampoo: This shampoo helps to brighten hair of all colors while neutralizing yellow stains. It doesn’t dry out your puppy’s skin and it smells wonderful. It truly works wonders for our white fur babies. Earthbath Oatmeal & Aloe Conditioner: This helps to detangle while relieving itching. This is great for all dogs but especially those with allergies, itching, and dry skin. It is non toxic, paraben and sulfate free, phthalate free, phosphate free, dye free, and soap free. We love the conditioner to this as well. Nootie Skin & Coat Solutions Sweet Pea & Vanilla Whitening Conditioner. This Bleach-free shampoo has the delicate fresh scent of Sweet Pea & Vanilla combined with Jojoba Oil to gently cleanse and nourish dry, stressed coats. It naturally brightens and whitens the coat while removing stains. There are NO sulfates or harsh chemicals, soap & paraben-free formula is made with all natural ingredients so you know its safe for your furry friend. The Chris Christensen Collection of Slicker Brushes: These are a line of high-quality grooming brushes designed to penetrate deep into your pet's coat to remove tangles, mats, and loose hair without causing discomfort or damage to their skin caused by impacted matting. T This brush works through dense coats all the way to the root. They work great to: detangle and remove knots in long and difficult to manage coats & to get down to the root and remove hard-to-reach undercoat. It helps to thin and separate hairs throughout the coat creating lift and volume. he collection includes various sizes, from "Baby" to “Big”. Typically this brush is available in 3 different sizes and a few different styles. You can choose the size & style that's best suited for your pet's coat type and size. It is widely used at dog shows and is highly regarded among professional dog handlers, groomers, and exhibitors. The brand is known for its high-quality grooming tools. Please make sure to use the appropriate size for the size of your dog. It’s also a good idea to have a Buttercomb on hand to aid you in working through mattes. Curly hair gets tangles EASILY! Grooming Please Understand that all Doodles will require Grooming by a professional. Since your Doodle has hair that continuously grows, it will need to be brushed several times a week to prevent mattes as much as possible, When doodles gets mattes, they become painful to their skin as it pulls and pulls the tighter it gets. Mattes can also cause all kinds of other skin conditions of not treated properly. Regular professional grooming will be needed for their lifetime starting after your puppy has had ALLLLLL of their shots (usually the is 16 weeks of age). This is NOT cheap. Most grooming start around $75 for a medium/moyen/mini sized doodle. Larger sizes cost more. The cost of grooming your doodle will also increase with the more matting it has. Other Puppy Necessities A crate: Metal sided is preferred as puppy’s can chew and scratch easily damaging the plastic ones. The crate is going to be your number one training tool! This is the safest place for your puppy when you can't be watching him and it will keep your furniture, shoes, and electronic devices out of harm’s way! We recommend something like the MidWest Puppy Play pens with a 1" grate on the bottom. These types of pens have a removable metal tray on the bottom to catch accidents and spills. This way if puppy does have an accident, they will not be stepping in their urine or feces and will stay clean. Just simply line the trays with newspaper or puppy pads. This can relieve a lot of the stress in the potty training process. Plus, you can put a bed in them for the puppy’s comfort. It doesn’t need to be any particular brand, just make sure it is safe and the right size for your puppy. You do not want your crate to be to large when they are little. When buying one that can grow with your puppy, you will want one with a moveable divider to section of space so puppy wont go and potty in another area. Puppy Play Pen: A puppy play pen (as pictured above) is nice to have to connect to the crate, so he can have some room to exercise while you are away. To do this, you simply place the Play pen surrounding the crate and leave the crate doors open. If you don't opt to buy one of these or do not have the space, then you can enrich their time away from you by giving them a frozen Kong treat. To do this, simply fill the Kong toy with some Dog safe peanut butter or Plain Greek Yogurt. Once it is full, you put the Kong it the freezer until frozen. It is recommend to do this ahead of time. Baby gates/Indoor fencing : These gates are great tools for sectioning off your home and keeping your pup in certain areas of your home! They also enable you to keep track of her when you can not watch them at every minute. A lot if times you can “kill two birds with one stone” here. The above style Playpen also serves as an indoor fence allowing you to section off an area of your home. The often are very diverse in the shape and size you need. Paper Towels: Lots of them! Accidents happen! Rags you don’t care about will also work! Just know that you will be cleaning up accidents. Puppies do not do this to make you upset. They are so small that they can NOT old their bladders for long. Think of a human baby trying to hold their bladder at 2 months of age….or even 6 months. It hard for them to learn. They will eventually get it with consistent training and patience. Pet Stain and odor remover: Nature's Miracle is a wonderful product, It is a bacteria based formula which produces enzymes to target pet stains. It works great and is tough on dog urine, feces, vomit, drool and other organic stains and odors. It has a light scent so it wont over power your nose. It is safe for use on carpets, hard floors, furniture, fabrics and more when used as directed. I now that there are many different brands on the market today. It is an ever revolving door of pet supplies. This is a good thing as you'll find that pet-specific cleaning products come in handy long after your new puppy is housebroken. Puppy’s food: We will provide your puppy with a small amount of the food we feed. I choose to feed a mixture of Canidae Real Salmon & Ancient Grains (All Life Stages) & Wellness Complete Health Large Breed Puppy food. Royal Canine is another brand I recommend. We strongly recommend feeding soaked kibble until 12 weeks old. Many choose to do it for the lifetime of the dog. If you are planning on switching puppy’s diet, please do this slowly! There are so many changes going on in your new puppy's life right now. Drastically changing his diet will cause an upset stomach and diarrhea. (This happens to all dogs at any stage of life when changing their food but especially to already stressed out puppies.) Slowly wean him off his old diet by mixing new food in with his old food in small amounts. Gradually increasing the amount of the new food. Please ONLY feed your new puppy, Puppy food specifically meant for dogs. Day 1: 75% old food, 25% new food Day 2: 70% old food, 30% new food. Day 3: 60% old food, 40% new food. Day 4: 50% old food, 50% new food. Day 5: 40% old food, 60% new food. Day 6: 25% old food, 75% new food. Day 7: 100% new food. Food and Water Bowls: Bowls are often a fun thing to pick out for your puppy. There is a lot of controversy about whether or not to have a raised dish. Current science states it is NOT recommended. However it always best to speak with your vet about this as BLOAT can be a big problem for deep chested dogs. This being said, I always recommend a weighted dish for both food and water. It often comes in handy with puppies who like to frolic in their bowl. Or who just want to knock their dishes completely over so mom and dad can play the pick up game! Poop bags: Start collecting these in advance, you are going to have lots of puppy poop to pick up. Some people like to recycle those plastic grocery bags to do this. When your puppy has finally had all of its shots, you will finally be able to go for walks. For this it is wise to get one of those poop bag containers that attach to your leash. Identification: All of our puppies will come microchipped to us. Make sure you register your puppy's microchip and the microchip ID as SOON as you get home. Although she already has it implanted, the number won't lead her back to you until you register it. The ID number is found her vet inspection document and also on a card included in the folder. The microchip company usually has a onetime, reasonable fee for this service. We don't want to risk even a moment of puppy being without some form of identification! We also recommend adding a tag to your puppy's collar with a scannable QR code or engraved contact information. Please remember to remove the collar when your pup is in her crate- it is a choking risk to leave it on. Contact a reputable trainer: I can NOT stress this enough! Please contact a reputable dog trainer and enroll your puppy into puppy classes. This will greatly enrich the bond between you and your dog. Truthfully it will help mold your dog into the wonderful family member you dreamed of having. Trust me when I say this is NEVER without a lot of hard work. It will also greatly reduce the frustration with your dog when you go with to the puppy classes because they teach you how train your puppy at home and in public. Remember training a dog is a marathon, not a sprint. Puppy safe toys: The toys that are deemed safe for dogs are always changing. Please ALWAYS watch your puppy will they are playing with anything. Kongs are by far one of the safest brands. However even a strong chewer can break these toys. *IMPORTANT* any small parts or squeakers on any toy can be chewed off and swallowed. This can not only be a choking hazard but it easily can become a BLOCKAGE in your puppies intestines. This is an emergency requiring surgery to fix IF you catch it on time. Bernedoodles and Poodles are both notorious for their infamous love of socks and underwear. Please be very vigilant about not letting your puppy/dog snatch and eat these things. This is again why I stress indoor leash training. This also helps to prevent your puppy from eating things they shouldn’t that can cause a blockage. What we send home with your New Puppy: The day your new fur baby comes home is such an exciting and memorable day. Your puppy comes with all required vet vaccinations until 8 weeks old. They all have dew claws removed. (Sometimes the dew claws do grow back. If this happens, it will be your choice to remove them during spay/neuter or leave them alone. We do not cover the cost.) We as your breeder will be sending you home with a bag filled with a few items. 1. Vaccinations & Deworming - Your puppy will come dewormed & with all vaccinations required up until the age of 8 weeks old. This will be reflected on your puppy vet record. This will show all of your puppies deworming and vaccinations received prior to going to their new homes. You will also receive a certificate of health from their vet appointment prior to going home. When you get home with your new puppy, it is now your responsibility to ensure the health of your puppy throughout the rest of its life. We require that you take your new puppy to your vet within 3 days of leaving our care & arriving to your home. 2 . Reusable Whimsy Doodle Tote Bag- All puppy items we are sending home will come in a reusable custom made bag that you can use for other things in the future. These are great bags to use when you travel or even for the grocery store. These make excellent bags for the beach! 3. A Microchip- Each puppy will go home Microchipped . This is service I provide to protect my puppies from ever ending up in a shelter. Please make sure to contact the microchip company and add your information ASAP. 4. A Blanket- Your puppy will be coming home with its very own fleece blanket. These blankets have been exposed to your puppies mom and liter for their smell. This is to help your puppy adjust when going to its new home. These blankets can be washed however I would wait at least a week or two until your puppy has adjusted without his mom and liter mates. 5. Toys- I am sending each puppy home with TWO toys. One is a small Kong meant for chewing. I use the same toy here for your puppy while growing up with mom so they will be familiar with it. The second toy is a larger toy made by the Kong brand. Please always watch your dog while they interact with any toy to make sure they are not swallowing pieces/parts they shouldn’t be. 5.Puppy Food- I send each puppy home with a small bag (a weeks worth) of the food we food feed, Cani dae Real Salmon & Ancient Grains (All Life Stages) & Wellness Complete Health Large Breed Puppy Food mixed together . This is to ensure that you can switch puppies food slowly if need be. If you are not switching puppies food to a new brand, then you can simply add what we provide to what you have a ready purchased. 6. A Binder- Your puppy will also be going home with a binder filled with lots of information about new puppies and your puppy. It will also hold a copy of your contract that you have already signed. 7.Poop Bags- 1 Bag of small bags specifically made to collect poop when in public. 8.Snuggle Puppy- * New this year.... I have decided to add a Snuggle Puppy to each Puppy bag. Each puppy will have their own stuffed snuggle puppy that provides warmth and comfort while soothing your little one.These can aid you in crate training your puppy by reducing barking, whining and nervousness. Each of them includes a heart that provides a real-feel heart beat with 2 different modes. They also come with a disposable warming pack. 9.Treats- * New this year.... I am adding in a package of puppy Treats so you can begin your new puppy's training right away. They are Soft Puppy bites, Lamb & Salmon recipe, from Wellness. This is the same brand as food I provide. * * * * * I do not provide collars, leashes or harnesses, crates, playpens or any grooming necessities. These will all be the responsibility of the new pet owner as is any future veterinary needs. It is the buys responsibility to educate themselves on the needs of puppies and how to protect them once they leave my care. What NOT to do when going home with your new puppy . Once your puppy leaves my care, the responsibility to protect this puppy falls to the new owner. We all know how exciting it can be to get a new puppy and we want to show them off to the world. However one of the worst things you can do is start exposing your puppy to a bunch of public places and new people who can carry diseases. When you leave with your puppy, it is HIGHLY recommended to never put your puppy down on grass in a public place. Lots of people take their dogs in public. Those dogs can carry diseases and unintentionally spread them. (they are protected with vaccinations themselves but can still carry them. However, it isn’t just other dogs (or animals in general) that carry & spread these diseases. People can also carry deadly diseases on their clothing, the bottom of their shoes or even hands. Instead when you take your new puppy in public, use disposable potty pads to place on the ground so they can potty if you can not wait until you get home. It's best to avoid contact with the ground at all. When going to public places, keep your puppy in a carrier on your body and DO NOT let others have contact with your puppy without proper precautions. (Clean fresh clothes that haven’t had contact with other pets/animals, shoes off and hands washed.) People in public that you do not know/trust can look with their eyes. Best practice is to leave your new puppy at home until he has had all of his vaccinations. Remember that diseases like Parvo can live on surfaces (including outdoors) for 6 months to a year.

Guide on feeding puppies through their first year and maintaining proper body weights. How Much to Feed Most vets and breeders agree puppies can be moved to adult foods after 12 months of age, depending on the breed, size, and current physical development. Several factors will play into the amount of food you feed your puppy. This includes the dogs age, current weight, anticipated adult weight, her breed, the environment she’s in (including the climate), and activity level. Puppies eat much more for their weight than adult dogs, and young puppies actually eat quite a bit more than older puppies. Young puppies should be fed three times a day, whereas older puppies often do well with twice- daily feedings. The feeding guidelines on the back of a dog food bag can give you some guidelines on portions to feed, but remember those are only general guidelines. There's no one-size-fits-all amount that every puppy should be fed. It can also change depending on what type of food you choose. Raw-fed puppies need a larger volume of food than kibble-fed puppies, because raw food contains less fat and calories per ounce. Another common feeding guideline is to allow your pup to eat at her own pace for about 10-15 minutes three times a day. Monitor your puppy’s feeding time closely and possibly separate her from other dogs to avoid the older dogs taking her food. We highly recommend to start desensitizing or training away food aggression while feeding your puppy. This should begin the first week you bring your puppy home. It is something that an adult to should do. Simply hand feed your puppy a couple of kibble pieces. Then place your hand in the food bowl while your puppy is eating as well as touching the outside of the bowl and near the food. Always positively reward the puppy for good behavior. We do suggest that you do NOT just reach into the bowl and take the food away. We highly recommend feeding your puppy soaked kibble until at least 12 weeks of age. Why do we recommend this? For starters, Puppies do not chew their food very well. Add that to the fact that puppies have a lot more mucus in their mouths and throats than an adult dog. This makes it harder for them to properly swallow. This means they have a much higher risk of choking. Soaking kibble is also something that greatly reduces the risk of bloat in dogs. Many breeders and dog owners actually feed soaked kibble throughout their dog's lifetime for this reason. Another benefit to soaking kibble is it reduces risk of UTI 's. This is because puppies are constantly getting lots of water. To soak kibble , simply place the kibble in the dog bowl and add warm or cold water. I always fill to just above the food. Then let it sit for about 20-30 minutes or until it isn’t soupy. Time may depend on the humidity in your home. Remember, there is no one size fits all plan for every puppy. So you should discuss your own puppy’s caloric needs with your vet.

Puppies are a lot of work. The more you arm yourself with knowledge, the easier training them can be. These are common puppy behaviors that will need training for every puppy. Dealing with Normal Puppy Behavior: Nipping and Rough Play Lets be real, puppies can play rough. It is normal for puppies to use their mouths while playing with their liter mates. This is also how puppies explore their world. Therefore, puppies usually want to bite or "mouth" hands or feet during play or when being pet. This behavior is rarely aggressive and, therefore, not intended to cause harm. Because this is a natural instinct for your puppy, it needs to be trained that it isn’t ok with humans. A proven method is to make a loud noise like a yelp. (I use a loud AHHHH noise). This teaches the puppy that she has bitten to hard and will typically immediately cease the bite. Timing of this is crucial. It must be done the moment the puppy puts its mouth on you in an inappropriate way. The next step is to immediately give your puppy something it CAN bite, like a Kong toy, bone or any other appropriate dog toy. The goals of working with this normal puppy behavior are to redirect your puppy's desire to put something in her mouth, such as an acceptable chew toy, and to teach her that putting her teeth on her skin is never acceptable. Encourage Acceptable Behavior Redirect your puppy's chewing toward acceptable objects by offering her a kong, small bone or other type of dog toy, If you are unsure of what is safe, I suggest speaking with your vet. This needs to be done every time she places her mouth on the skin. You can start by always offering a toy when wanting to pet your puppy. This technique can be especially effective when children want to play with or pet the puppy. As you or the child reach out to scratch her with one hand, offer the chew bone with the other. This will not only help your puppy learn that people and petting are wonderful, but will also keep her mouth busy while she's being petted. Alternate which hand does the petting and which one has the chew bone. At first, you may need to pet or scratch your puppy for short periods of time since the longer she's petted, the more likely she is to get excited and start to nip. Remember that puppies have short attention spans just like children. Discourage Unacceptable Behavior You must also teach your puppy that putting her mouth on your skin is unacceptable for any reason. Nipping should result in unpleasant consequences for her, meaning she will not longer be getting the attention she is seaking. In order to teach your puppy that nipping "turns off" all attention and social interaction with you, you need to react to the nip immediately with the yelp type noise, remove hands from puppy and ignore the puppy completely for a few moments. If she continues to place her teeth on your skin, get up and walk away from the puppy. You may need to have her tethered by a leash while you play so when you leave, she can't follow. After 10-15 seconds, return to your puppy and try the chew toy and petting method again. It will take many repetitions for your puppy to learn and grasp what is expected. NOTE: Never leave your puppy fully unattended while she is tethered as she may get tangled in her leash and injure herself. When you leave the room, stand a good distance away where puppy can not see you but you can see her. The leave the room method is designed to remove attention from the puppy momentarily, not for long periods of time. Remember that these methods will probably be ineffective unless you are consistent with this training. Teaching a puppy desired behaviors is a lot of work. Jumping Up Training your puppy to not jump on you or others when they come over can be a difficult task. There are many different methods out there for this type of training. When your puppy jumps up on you, it wants attention. When you turn your back, push her away, knee her in the chest, or step on her hind toes (which is cruel), you are then giving your puppy what we call negative attention. This becomes a rewarding behavior because your puppy has gotten what it wants attention of any sort. Therefore, the puppy will continue to jump. From your puppy's point of view, negative attention is better than no attention at all. When your puppy jumps up: Fold your arms in front of you, stand still, and ignore the jumping behavior. Continue to ignore her until all four of her paws are on the ground. The moment puppy paws touch the ground, praise and give a treat. At this point use the "sit" command. When your puppy sits, reward with your mark word (good, yes, etc) and another treat. If she jumps up again when you begin to praise her, repeat the process. Its important to have every person she meets follow these same steps. Consistency is key with ALL puppy training. When your puppy realizes that she gets the attention she craves only when she stops jumping on you and sits (if she knows the command), she'll stop jumping up. Remember to always reward the good behavior that you are seeking. Be careful not to ignore her when she comes and sits politely, waiting for your attention. What Not To Do Attempts to tap, slap, or hit your puppy in the face (or anywhere on its body) for nipping or jumping up are guaranteed to backfire. This can cause very negative reactions depending on your puppy's temperament. Your puppy can become "hand shy" and cringe or cower whenever a hand comes toward her face. This can also cause your puppy to become afraid of you. Once your puppy becomes afraid of you, they will start to refuse to come to you or approach you at all. Your puppy could also respond in a defensive manner and attempt to bite you. This would be in pure defense. Likewise, your puppy can also interpret a slight slap as an invitation to play. Which would in turn cause her to become more excited and be even more likely to nip or jump. About Children and Puppies It's very difficult for children, especially younger kids, to practice the types of behavior modifications we discussed. A child’s first reaction to being nipped, mouthed, or jumped up on by a puppy is to use their hands to move the puppy away. They will sometimes hit and other times push the puppy away. This can be interpreted by the puppy as play which in turn causes the puppy to nip, mouth, or jump even more. It can also cause your puppy to become fearful of your child. Always supervise your puppy and children together. Having a puppy also means teaching your children boundaries. It is never ok for your child to pull on a puppies ears, tail or legs. Remember that dogs use body language to let us know how they are feeling. Pay attention to how your dog feels with the interactions they are having as well. It is highly recommended to seek the help of a professional dog trainer to help with desired behaviors. It's also very important to remember to give your dog rules and expectations. We can not have a well behaved dog if we do not take the time to teach them what behaviors we expect of them. Indoor leash training We have already discussed the importance of your puppy learning rules for your home. A simple method to help with this is leash training. Years ago a trainer taught me this trick to help my puppy learn boundaries and rules for inside. Its pretty simple actually. Keep your puppy attached to a leash and attached to you at all times except when he is in the crate. (DO NOT leave the leash on your puppy inside a crate . This can be very dangerous.) This helps the puppy learn what is expected of him. He will observe you very closely and learn easily what you do and do not want. This helps you to be consistent because puppy is right there at all times. Remember corrections have to be doe in real time/immediately. Even waiting for 5 minutes will confuse your puppy. This method also helps your puppy with potty training. A puppy will not go in close range of where they are sitting or laying down. This also gives you the chance to observe your puppy’s body language. By learning this from your puppy, you will know when he needs to go outside, when he wants to play, cuddle, or take a nap. This also encourages a stronger bond with your puppy. Using this method also desensitizes your puppy to the leash. So when it is finally time to start walking your puppy (after all of its shots are complete) it will not have that fear.

Bringing home a new puppy. What to do and what not to do. Things to Do & to Avoid when first bringing your new Puppy Home. In order to protect your growing puppy's delicate health, there are many precautions you can and should take starting from the moment you have your puppy in your arms. As the breeder, Whimsy Doodles has been taking many of these precautions from the moment these puppies were born. Diseases such as Giardia and Parvo can be EASY to contract and hard to get rid of. These viral diseases can live on surfaces for 5-6 months . Some of these diseases can also be fatal if not treated early. Here are some things you can do to protect your puppy from these diseases: 1. Don't take the puppy out to public places such as pet stores, other stores or parks that allow dogs or put them in public grassy spots until after they have had ALL of their vaccinations. 2. Do not let people handle your puppy until 10 days after their final vaccines, usually around 16 wks.This is because people can carry these viral diseases on their clothing (and shoes). You never know if someone has had an ill pet or been in contact unknowingly with another animal who is carrying these diseases. It is also to protect you and your puppy from people who may get overly upset about being scratched or nipped by a very young puppy. 3. Do NOT buy toys from a pet store that lets dogs/puppies come in and try toys out. This is a HUGE risk of contracting Parvo. I have witnessed people allowing their dogs to lick and chew on toys and then throw them back on the shelf for someone else to buy. I always recommend washing any toy you purchase . 4. We keep our puppies on a schedule when it comes to feedings.Its recommended not to change this schedule much for the first 2 weeks. 5. Do NOT plan to pickup your puppy during a very busy time. Instead, it's highly recommended to pickup your puppy at a time when you have or can take a few days off work to let the puppy acclimate. It's important that they have someone home with them. 6. Remember that your contract requires a Vet checkup within 72 hrs after pickup. Its highly recommended to schedule this is advance of your puppy coming home. 7. The first three weeks are the hardest for your new puppy. It's very important to Remember the 3*3*3 Rules for puppies. (See Graphic below.) Just remember to give them time. Giving up and trying to rehome them (contract states Breeder is to be contacted first) is actually very scary and bad for the puppy. 8. Remember that jumping is really bad for a growing dogs joints and development. Practice the no jumping rule: no stairs, no jumping off anything including beds, decks, porches, in or out of cars for at least the year. 9. Do not let smaller children carry the puppy around or anyone that may be under the influence. So many bad things can happen with either scenario. If your child wants to hold the puppy, have them sit down to do so and stand near them at all times. This is also to protect your child. 10. Do not allow your puppy on furniture until it can get on and off the furniture on its own. A simple fall like this on the floor can do immeasurable damage. Puppy Preperation List: These are items you should purchase in advance and wash before use •10-14 inch flat collar, or appropriate size for your puppy's neck. (typically people start with a small size and move up as needed.) •6ft lead (no flexi lead leashes ever.) •15ft long line lead for training (can be found on Chewy & Amazon) •2 stainless steel puppy bowls (no elevated food bowls). Stainless Steel helps to keep white facial hair on dog's white. Its also healthier than plastic. •Training Treats (anything soft, small & healthy) •48 inch crate (no collars ever on while crated) •Puppy toys (no stuffed toys or anything they can tear apart and swallow except when supervised) • Kong brand chew toys. •Puppy Shampoo & Conditioner •Nail clippers.You can buy these online on Chewy or on Amazon. •Dog bed. Make sure to get one that is washable. •Baby gate or Indoor fencing (if needed). • Bladder Bites by Zesty Paws. (To help prevent UTI’s) Quick Vet Tips Do’s and Don’t’s: • 1st vet appointment- most often they want you to take a fresh stool sample. This is normal as your vet will want to test for parasites. • 1st vet appointment- DO NOT let your puppies feet touch the ground at the vet. The vet is a dirty place and you don’t know what potentially sick animal just walked in before your puppy who is not fully vaccinated. •Ask for either Heartguard chewables or Interceptor Plus. ***It is NOT recommended to use the all in one Heartworm, Flea/Tick/Parasite med to your puppy. This is prescribed by a vet but has killed puppies before •Do talk to your vet about the best practice for adding additional vaccinations such as Leptospirosis or Lyme disease. The most important thing, is to do the core vaccinations. (Parvo, Distemper, Adeno virus, Parainfluenza..core puppy vaccinations). •NO all-in-one pills for heartworm, intestinal parasites and flea/tick. These have sadly taken many dogs lives. Of course your puppy/dog needs all of these preventatives, however it is best to be given not in an all in one pill. Many of these all-in-one pills cause serious side effects. •There are natural repellents to help prevent or get rid of fleas and ticks, aside from medications. I highly recommend Wondercide Flea & Tick. You can purchase it on Amazon. •It is highly recommended to NOT spay/neuter your dog until they are adults. Some Vets will push for spay/neuter at 6 months of age. Simply let them know that you will not be spaying/neutering until they have reached maturity and the growth plates have closed. This is usually 12 months of age. For large breed dogs such as the Bernese Mountain Dog, this can be 18-20 months old.

Education on Bernedoodles, their coats, colors and generations. Bernedoodle Coats Generations, & Colors When it comes time to pick out our new puppies, it’s always exciting to choose our favorite colors and patterns. There is such a wide variety that it can be almost overwhelming. So what are they all? Well, coat colors very much come into play with specific genes that dogs carry and what generation your puppy is effects this as well. Understanding Furnishings & Curl It important to understand the role that furnishings play in a doodles coat. Furnishing genes determine the type and look of the coat as well as wether or not it is a shedding coat or not. Bernese Mountain Dogs carry zero furnishing genes, have no beard and have both a top and undercoat. Poodles carry two furnishing genes. They have beards (most people shave a poodles face when it is groomed) and endlessly growing hair. It takes two of these genes to create the non shedding coat in a dog. Furnishing genes are dominant (also called an allele), so it takes just one copy of this gene to present long hair on the face in a mixed breed puppy. So if a Bernedoodle inherits only one furnishing gene, it will look like a doodle but can still shed like Bernese Mountain Dog. Here, The furnishings gene masks the expression of the recessive unfurnished gene that a lot of doodles still carry in their genome. In order to create the non shedding coat, we then have to breed back in the second furnishing gene. There are three identified furnishings alleles: Strong Furnishings (F), Weak Furnishings (Fw) and unfurnished (f, also known as IC) - dominant in this order. Dogs coats with weak to no furnishings have also been called improper coats. Another way to think of this is the more FLOOFY your dog is all over, the more non shedding they likely are. Keep in mind that ALL dogs can shed some hair. The myth that the curlier any dogs coat is, the less it will shed is simply not true. For example a curly coated retriever sheds horribly. Rather this is determined by genetics. The cure one is an incomplete dominant gene. A dog that is +/+ for curl is a curly dog like a Poodle. A dog that is -/- for curl has a straight coat like the BMD. A dog that has both + and - can express a wide variety of curly to straight. This is because the curl gene is incomplete dominant which allows there straight gene to control the amount of curl. The curl genes inherited by each puppy and each generation of doodle contributes to the type of coat each puppy inherits. Bernese Mountain Dogs can carry one curl gene, giving them a slight wave to their fur, whereas Poodles carry two curl genes. All F1s will inherit a total of one copy of the curl gene allowing their coats to be wavy in general. In puppies of deeper generations who inherit two curl genes, they will exhibit a coat similar to a Poodle’s coat. For those puppies who inherit no curl genes, their coats will be straight to slightly wavy. On the flip side of this, a doodle with tight or strong curl coats are harder to maintain because their coats are much harder to keep from matting. Often those with very curly coated dogs will groom their hair shorter to help alleviate this. Shedding Gene Last, let's talk about the shedding gene. This area of genes is identified as the Shedding Locus. The shedding Locus has two known alleles: SD (+, shedding) and sd (-, non-shedding), dominant in that order. A dog that is +/+ will shed. Bernese Mountain Dogs are +/+ shedding dogs. Dogs that are -/- for shedding will not shed (or very low shed). Poodles are -/- for shedding (or should be). The shedding alleles (+/-) have a similar relationship with each other as the curl alleles. The dominant SD allele (+) is an incomplete dominant, so it will allow the recessive non-shedding allele to take over so to speak. So a dog that has a genome of +/- will likely shed, but how much will depend on the furnishing genes present as the overall quality of the coat. Notice that curl does not factor a large amount into a shedding coat. Where as all the genes we discussed here factor into a dogs coat, the shedding factor has much more to do with the furnishing and shedding gene. So putting these things together, in order to get a non shedding (or low shedding) puppy, we need to breed parents that are homozygous negative for shedding and homozygous for Furnishings (FF). This virtually non-shedding dog would be FF, sd/sd (or -/-) on their respective loci. These genes can be inherited in any combination in a single puppy. Puppies inheriting two furnishing genes will likely be non-shedding. Puppies inheriting one furnishing gene will have reduced shedding most likely equal to an F1 Bernedoodle. Those inheriting no furnishing genes will have coats very similar to a Bernese Mountain Dog (a smooth face and heavy shedding.) All three coat types are possible in an F2 generation as well – straight, wavy, or curly. Bernedoodle Generations Now that you understand how the genetics of a dog play into its coat, let's talk about the generations of a dog. A doodles generation factors into what genes it can or can not inherit. An F1 Bernedoodle is a first generation. This means that a Bernese Mountain Dog was bred with a Standard Poodle. Most first generation Bernedoodles will come in a tri-color, making them look much like the Bernese Mountain Dog, or they will come in black and white. Sometimes you will see a phantom tri-color phantom or even a brindle pattern. Their coat can be straight or wavy as their genetics can take after either parent. This means that they can inherit hair that continues to grow (furnished) or fur that continually sheds (unfurnished). Dogs that have hair that continuously grows will need constant grooming. For anyone with allergies, it is not recommended to get a first generation doodle. An F1b is F1 Bernedoodle that has been bred back to a poodle. This generation typically has the wavy or curly coat. It is also more likely to be hypoallergenic. However you can still end up with a pup here and there who doesn’t have the non (or low) shedding coat meaning its genetics took more after the Bernese in its line. Second generations are typically highly sought after for the non (or low) shedding coats and atypical coat colors. An F1bb is a F1b Bernedoodle that has been bred back to a poodle. These dogs are 50% likely to inherit two furnishing genes and possibly two curl genes. This means they are more likely to have a wavy/curly & non (to low) shedding coat. These are typically highly sought after for uncommon coat colors and the hypoallergenic aspect. This is a great generation for allergy sufferers. Multi Generational Doodles are any generation F2 and beyond. A multi-gen is any doodle that has been bred by two doodles. Most of these generations are much harder to predict furnishings and shedding genes. An F2 is a second generation (Multi generation) Bernedoodle. This means that two F1 generation Bernedoodles have been bred together. It can also be a breeding between and F1 and an F1b. This makes the coat type and hypoallergenic factor hard to predict. The genetics of these dogs can take after either parent or grandparents, meaning the may not have the wavy/curly hair and they may shed. Each puppy from an F2 liter has equal chances of inheriting zero, one, or two furnishing genes as well as zero, one, or two curl genes.These genes can be inherited in any combination in a single puppy. Puppies inheriting two furnishing genes are usually non-shedding. An F2b is a multigeneration Bernedoodle that has beeb bred back to a Poodle or bred back to a Bernese Mountain Dog. When bred back to a poodle, the coat type on this generation is likely to be more wavy/curly and low to non shedding then an F2 generation. If bred back to a Bernese Mountain Dog, the coat is more likely to be unfurnished and shed. However this generation can still be very unpredictable when to comes to coat type and allergens. An F2bb is multigeneration Bernedoodle bred from an F1bb Bernedoodle and an F1 Bernedoodle. They can possess slightly more poodle genetics but it all depends on breeding and what was crossed. These crossings can be unpredictable when it comes to furnishing and shedding genes. An F3 is a third generation Bernedoodle bred from an F2 to another F2. These are puppies with unpredictable genetics so most often are not bred. It is not recommended to those with allergies to consider an F3 multigenerational doodle. Coat Colors Now that we have learned how genetics play a roll in the coat of your new doodle, we need to understand that genetics also control what color your puppies coat will be. For simplicity sake, we are only going to cover the basics as a dogs genetics have so many different pieces. A dogs color genetics are called a Locus on a genetic test. Basic terms to understand when it comes to color genetics are these: A capital letter means it is a dominant trait, ex. For a Black dog you will have a capitol B = dominant. A lower case letter means it is a recessive trait, example for a black dog you will have a lower case b = recessive. Genetic carrier (Carrier), means that the dog has an inherited recessive trait that it does not display, but can pass on to offspring. Black- Black Colored Dog Chocolate- Brown Colored Dog White, Creme, Apricot or Red- White, Creme, Apricot or Red Colored Dog, but could have either Brown or Black pigmentation. Phantom - Phantom dogs usually have two colors, one base color and small areas/markings of another color. Typically this is Black or Brown with rust/tan. Picture a dobermans coloring and markings. Phantom Bernedoodles have have a base coat of black with brown on all four legs, chest, checks, and eyebrows. Either a Black Dog with Tan/Silver points on face, inner legs, chest and under tail or a Chocolate Dog with Tan points on face, inner legs, chest and under tail. A Phantom dog will have little to NO white markings. Brindle - Brindle is a coat color pattern in a dog. It looks much like a tiger stripping. Brindle colors are either blue based brindle or a red based brindle. Blue based is typically Black with light colored (typically a tan, brown or reddish color) tiger striping over the body. The Red Based is more brown with light colored (sometimes even tan/tiger striping over the body. This can be in varying degrees of light to dark coloring. Brindles can be solid brindle, brindle with the white of the Bernese Mountain Dog , or Brindle abstract. Sable - Sable is a coat color represented by black-tipped hairs on a background of any solid color, with no particular pattern/location designated for such hairs. Sable hair follicles are very unique. Each follicle can often have as many as 3 different colors. Sable Bernedoodles can be fully sable or have the white of the Bernese Mountain Dog. Sables are most typically Brown/Tan & Black. Most often sables will have fading to a lighter tan or silver body, with dark tips only remaining over time. As a puppy you will see the lighter color coming into the coat as the base of the hair. Tri-Color - A tri-color Bernedoodle is a mostly black and white dog with red/rust marking above their eyes, on the sides of their cheeks, sometimes on their legs and bottoms below their tails. Tricolors may or may not have white on the face or may have a limited amount of white. Traditionally, tricolor Bernedoodles look much more like a Bernese Mountain Dog. Tricolors can also have a full white mask. Parti - A Parti Doodle means particular color. It is a dog with a white background and another predominate color. Parti’s can be any color but always have white markings. Parti’s have MORE than 50% white on their coat. Bi-Color/Abstract - A Bicolor dog is described as having two colors. This can include a single coat color (brown, black, red, or blonde) accompanied by white markings on the face, chest, feet, and tail or small white patches on the chest, snout, or toes. This is also known as abstract. Abstract dogs typically have white markings present on the face, chest and/or paws of a dog on 50% or LESS of their bodies. Silvers (or Silver Beige)- A Dog that started out as Black or Brown and faded over time. This usually starts with the tips of hairs or the points becoming silver hair. It can also start in patches and not be all at once. Example-This can be seen a lot with Sheepadoodles and any other dogs with the fading gene. Merle - Also known as a dapple. Merle is irregular blotches of fur set on a lighter background of the same pigment. Solid black on gray (called blue merle) or solid brown on tan (red merle). Blue and partially blue eyes are often seen with the merle pattern, as well. For more information on Merles, please see the merle genetics page.

We are a smaller family breeder of quality bred, healthy Mini Bernedoodles (mini means medium in size). These puppies are raised in our home with our family. All parents are Health tested. Puppies will come up to date with vet care and vaccinations up to 8 weeks old, microchipped and with a care package. They are able to go home at 8 weeks of age. Dams & Sires We take the upmost pride in all of our dogs. They are all raised in our home with love. All of our parents have been health tested. Results of each parent will be listed next to their picture on this page. Our dogs temperaments are just as important to us. All of our dogs are gentle, friendly, outgoing, good with children, have a willingness to please, train easily and are healthy. Dams Sires Luna Luna is a F1B Mini Bernedoodle. She is a Blue Merle Parti. Luna is a very sweet, calm, intelligent, eager to please girl who absolutely loves people. She was a dream to train & Grooms easily. This girl brings a smile to everyone who meets her. Luna's Testing Expresses Merle- M*m GM2 Gangliosidosis (HEXB, Poodle Variant)- Clear *Intervertebral Disc Disease (Type I) (FGF4 retrogene - CFA12)- Clear *Neonatal Encephalopathy with Seizures, NEWS (ATF2)- Clear *Osteochondrodysplasia (SLC13A1, Poodle Variant) *Progressive Retinal Atrophy, prcd (PRCD Exon 1) *Von Willebrand Disease Type I, Type I vWD (VWF)- Clear *Degenerative Myelopathy, DM (SOD1A)- Clear Ollivander Ollivander is an AKC registred Standard Poodle. He is a White & Brown Parti. Ollie is on the small side for a standard Poodle.He is extremely smart, gentle natured and is a dream to train & groom. Ollie is an old soul for sure. Ollivander's Testing No Merle Gene- mm *GM2 Gangliosidosis (HEXB, Poodle Variant)- Clear *Intervertebral Disc Disease (Type I) (FGF4 retrogene - CFA12)- Clear *Neonatal Encephalopathy with Seizures, NEWS (ATF2)- Clear *Osteochondrodysplasia (SLC13A1, Poodle Variant) *Progressive Retinal Atrophy, prcd (PRCD Exon 1) *Von Willebrand Disease Type I, Type I vWD (VWF)- Clear *Degenerative Myelopathy, DM (SOD1A)- carrier Sizes We expect puppies from Luna and Ollivander to be between 30-55 pounds. These will be F1bb mini/moyen Bernedoodles. This means they will be medium in size and low to non-shedding. **PLEASE NOTE! All puppies can inherit genetics from multiple generations which includes genetics from the Bernese Mountain Dog and a poodle. For this reason, we can not guarantee size or coat quality. Your dog's diet and exercise can also have a big effect on their weight & health. Future liters will be announced here. Our next litter is coming soon! March of 2025. Vet confirmation will come in February. This will also give us an idea on litter size.