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Our Puppy Adoption Process Step One- Application Interested in one of our Whimsy Doodle puppies? First fill out and submit our puppy application. You can find the application in the menu tab under Application. Once that is done, we will email or message you within 1-2 business days. Make sure to include which puppy you have an interest in. Please understand that any puppy shown as available may be in the process of being reserved. We sell our puppies to approved families on a first come basis. Once we begin a waitlist for a litter, puppies picks will be done at 5 weeks in the order deposits are received. We as a breeder reserve the right to reserve our pick of the litter first. Please contact us so we can help determine which puppy would be a good fit for your family and lifestyle. Sometimes the look you are after doesn't carry the temperament you may be searching for. Step Two- Deposit Once your application has been approved, you have communicated with us and we have agreed upon which puppy is right for your family and lifestyle, then it is time to place your Non-refundable deposit in order to reserve the puppy agreed upon. This deposit is to secure us holding the puppy until 8-9 weeks of age when it can go home. A Deposit Contract must be filled out, signed and returned to us With your deposit in order for us to accept it. As soon as we receive both the deposit contract and deposit, we then mark the puppy as reserved on all platforms and will not show that puppy to other potential buyers. Step Three- Health Contract When we receive your deposit, we will email or message you the deposit contract to sign along with the Health Contract. This is the contract for the sale of the puppy and includes the health guarantee . This contract Must be completed, signed & returned to us before puppy can go home. Step Four- Preparing for Puppy This exciting time will go much quicker than expected. While you are waiting for the special day to arrive, we will continue to send photos and sometimes videos once weekly until go home day! We suggest setting up your puppy's new living area before go home day. We recommend a wire crate with a puppy pen around it. Each family will go home with a 2 Gallon bag of the mixed puppy food that we feed. We feed a mixture of Canidae All Life Stages Salmon & Ancient Grains and Wellness Complete Health Large Breed Puppy Food Chicken & Whitefish. After all of the contracts have been signed, we will arrange a pick up date for you to pick up your puppy. We send each puppy home with a large tote filled with goodies. Please see the Puppy Go Home Bags section below for a list of items. Each Puppy will be given a separate pick up so that We can go over everything with the new family. During this waiting period, it is wise to contact your vet and set up an appointment for your puppy to be seen within the first few days of bringing him/her home. We bring all puppies to the vet prior to leaving us. They will go home with their first vaccinations and a health certificate stating they are healthy while with us. Often times puppy training programs fills up fast. We recommend contacting them as soon as you know your go home date to get your puppy in at the right age. (waiting until your puppy has had at least 2 vaccinations is sometimes acceptable to training facilities). We always suggest waiting until vaccinations are complete at 16 weeks for safety. Step Five- Paying All Puppies must be paid for in FULL before going home. We will NOT release any puppy that hasn't been paid for. There will be no exceptions to this. If boarding fees have been added to the total of your puppy, they must be paid in full before puppy can go home. Payments can be made via Zelle, Good Dog or paid in Cash if agreed upon up front. We do not accept payments for puppies with Venmo, Cash app or PayPal. Step Six- Pick Up Day As mentioned above, each family will be given a separate pick up day & time. If a family needs to pick up their puppy after the initial Go Home day, then a $30 per day boarding fee will be added to their total. This fee must be paid in full before pick up. When the day comes to pick up your puppy, we recommend that you are prepared with the following items; *A small crate for your car or under seat travel crate for flights. *A Towel for puppy in case of vomiting or accidents. Baby wipes are also handy to have for clean ups. *Travel bowls for food and water. * A bottle of water. *A harness and leash. *A small blanket, bed/crate pad for the crate. *Puppy Pads for the crate and to place on the ground for potty breaks when traveling home. Please remember that puppies enter a strong fear period during week 8-9. Leaving the breeder, their mom and siblings can be very stressful as is. So bringing a puppy home during this time needs to be done delicately. We strongly recommend that 1-2 people pick up the puppy to bring home. Having a loud group or loud rambunctious children during that initial time can overly stress the puppy out. This can cause a reaction that can live with the puppy forever. It is best to keep the first few days as calm as possible for your new puppy. Go Home Bags Items your New Puppy will Go home with. All puppies will come with their first shots, dewormed, microchipped and will be looked over by our vet before leaving. We offer a limited 1 year health guarantee.We will be sending home a care package with each of our puppies as well. This package includes: * A reusable Whimsy Doodle tote bag. * A binder with all of your paperwork, vet documents and some educational information. * Dew Claws Removed by licensed DVM *Vet exam *Vaccinations- First set. Second set will only be given to older puppies that are still with us at the time the next set is needed. Of course all shots will be given at the appropriate age. *First Heartworm chewable- One single monthly dose. *Two probiotic packets- When puppies go home it is very stressful on them. To help, we give probiotics for gut health. This also helps if you switch their food from what we feed. * Dewormed every two weeks from birth. *Food- A 2 Gallon bag of puppy food will be provided so you can slowly introduce your own food. It will be a mixture of the two foods I feed. * A fleece blanket- (pre-washed) that has been with your puppy's mom and liter mates for their scent. This helps with the initial transition to your home. *A Microchip- The paperwork to add your information to your puppy's microchip will be inside of your binder. *Two new puppy toys- A small Kong for made for a puppy and A Kong brand tough stuffed animal. (**Always observe your puppy while playing with any toy.) *Poop Bags. One full container of Poop Bags for your trip home. *A Potty Pad or two- to place your puppy on during the trip home. *Snuggle Puppy- Each puppy will have their own stuffed snuggle puppy that provides warmth and comfort while soothing your little one.These can aid you in crate training your puppy by reducing barking, whining and nervousness. Each of them includes a heart that provides a real-feel heart beat with 2 different modes. They also come with a disposable warming pack. *Treats- One package of Puppy Treats so you can begin your new puppy's training right away. They are Soft Puppy bites, Lamb & Salmon recipe, from Wellness. This is the same brand as the food I provide. *Puppy teethers- I include a couple of Yak chews that help exercise your puppy mentally as well as helping with teething. We give these to our puppies as soon as their puppy teeth are in.

These puppies are available for adoption. They are looking for their forever homes. They will be marked reserved once purchased. Available Puppies For more images of each puppy, please visit our Gallery Page. We have no available puppies at this time. Please check back for announcements on upcoming litters & news.

Check back to this page for announcements on upcoming litters, planned litters or just arrived litters. Announcements We are not expecting our next litter until spring 2027. However, we do have some very exciting things happening for the future of our Program. Stay tuned for those announcements.

Females Males Disney Litter Contact Me

Females Males Disney Litter Contact Me

These are reviews left by our families about our past puppies that have gone to their forever homes. Customer Reviews Share your experience with us Have you purchased a puppy from us? * Yes No In the Process of it now. How long have you had one of our puppies? * Just brought our new Puppy home 6 Months One Year or Longer I dont have a puppy yet. Please rate your overall satisfaction with your Puppy & Our Service. Very dissatisfied A bit dissatisfied Pretty satisfied Satisfied Very satisfied What is your Whimsy Doodles Puppy's Name? Tell Us about your experience with your Puppy & with us at Whimsy doodles. Your email address First name Last name Submit Thank you very much for sharing your experience with us. It is very appreciated. "Remy has been such an amazing addition to our family. He is a very smart & so easy to train. We love him so much." “ The world would be be a better place if we all had the ability to love as unconditionally as a dog."

Past Disney litter of puppies. They have all found their forever homes. Disney Litter Females Males

Puppies are a lot of work. The more you arm yourself with knowledge, the easier training them can be. These are common puppy behaviors that will need training for every puppy. Dealing with Normal Puppy Behavior: Nipping and Rough Play Lets be real, puppies can play rough. It is normal for puppies to use their mouths while playing with their liter mates. This is also how puppies explore their world. Therefore, puppies usually want to bite or "mouth" hands or feet during play or when being pet. This behavior is rarely aggressive and, therefore, not intended to cause harm. Because this is a natural instinct for your puppy, it needs to be trained that it isn’t ok with humans. A proven method is to make a loud noise like a yelp. (I use a loud AHHHH noise). This teaches the puppy that she has bitten to hard and will typically immediately cease the bite. Timing of this is crucial. It must be done the moment the puppy puts its mouth on you in an inappropriate way. The next step is to immediately give your puppy something it CAN bite, like a Kong toy, bone or any other appropriate dog toy. The goals of working with this normal puppy behavior are to redirect your puppy's desire to put something in her mouth, such as an acceptable chew toy, and to teach her that putting her teeth on her skin is never acceptable. Encourage Acceptable Behavior Redirect your puppy's chewing toward acceptable objects by offering her a kong, small bone or other type of dog toy, If you are unsure of what is safe, I suggest speaking with your vet. This needs to be done every time she places her mouth on the skin. You can start by always offering a toy when wanting to pet your puppy. This technique can be especially effective when children want to play with or pet the puppy. As you or the child reach out to scratch her with one hand, offer the chew bone with the other. This will not only help your puppy learn that people and petting are wonderful, but will also keep her mouth busy while she's being petted. Alternate which hand does the petting and which one has the chew bone. At first, you may need to pet or scratch your puppy for short periods of time since the longer she's petted, the more likely she is to get excited and start to nip. Remember that puppies have short attention spans just like children. Discourage Unacceptable Behavior You must also teach your puppy that putting her mouth on your skin is unacceptable for any reason. Nipping should result in unpleasant consequences for her, meaning she will not longer be getting the attention she is seaking. In order to teach your puppy that nipping "turns off" all attention and social interaction with you, you need to react to the nip immediately with the yelp type noise, remove hands from puppy and ignore the puppy completely for a few moments. If she continues to place her teeth on your skin, get up and walk away from the puppy. You may need to have her tethered by a leash while you play so when you leave, she can't follow. After 10-15 seconds, return to your puppy and try the chew toy and petting method again. It will take many repetitions for your puppy to learn and grasp what is expected. NOTE: Never leave your puppy fully unattended while she is tethered as she may get tangled in her leash and injure herself. When you leave the room, stand a good distance away where puppy can not see you but you can see her. The leave the room method is designed to remove attention from the puppy momentarily, not for long periods of time. Remember that these methods will probably be ineffective unless you are consistent with this training. Teaching a puppy desired behaviors is a lot of work. Jumping Up Training your puppy to not jump on you or others when they come over can be a difficult task. There are many different methods out there for this type of training. When your puppy jumps up on you, it wants attention. When you turn your back, push her away, knee her in the chest, or step on her hind toes (which is cruel), you are then giving your puppy what we call negative attention. This becomes a rewarding behavior because your puppy has gotten what it wants attention of any sort. Therefore, the puppy will continue to jump. From your puppy's point of view, negative attention is better than no attention at all. When your puppy jumps up: Fold your arms in front of you, stand still, and ignore the jumping behavior. Continue to ignore her until all four of her paws are on the ground. The moment puppy paws touch the ground, praise and give a treat. At this point use the "sit" command. When your puppy sits, reward with your mark word (good, yes, etc) and another treat. If she jumps up again when you begin to praise her, repeat the process. Its important to have every person she meets follow these same steps. Consistency is key with ALL puppy training. When your puppy realizes that she gets the attention she craves only when she stops jumping on you and sits (if she knows the command), she'll stop jumping up. Remember to always reward the good behavior that you are seeking. Be careful not to ignore her when she comes and sits politely, waiting for your attention. What Not To Do Attempts to tap, slap, or hit your puppy in the face (or anywhere on its body) for nipping or jumping up are guaranteed to backfire. This can cause very negative reactions depending on your puppy's temperament. Your puppy can become "hand shy" and cringe or cower whenever a hand comes toward her face. This can also cause your puppy to become afraid of you. Once your puppy becomes afraid of you, they will start to refuse to come to you or approach you at all. Your puppy could also respond in a defensive manner and attempt to bite you. This would be in pure defense. Likewise, your puppy can also interpret a slight slap as an invitation to play. Which would in turn cause her to become more excited and be even more likely to nip or jump. About Children and Puppies It's very difficult for children, especially younger kids, to practice the types of behavior modifications we discussed. A child’s first reaction to being nipped, mouthed, or jumped up on by a puppy is to use their hands to move the puppy away. They will sometimes hit and other times push the puppy away. This can be interpreted by the puppy as play which in turn causes the puppy to nip, mouth, or jump even more. It can also cause your puppy to become fearful of your child. Always supervise your puppy and children together. Having a puppy also means teaching your children boundaries. It is never ok for your child to pull on a puppies ears, tail or legs. Remember that dogs use body language to let us know how they are feeling. Pay attention to how your dog feels with the interactions they are having as well. It is highly recommended to seek the help of a professional dog trainer to help with desired behaviors. It's also very important to remember to give your dog rules and expectations. We can not have a well behaved dog if we do not take the time to teach them what behaviors we expect of them. Indoor leash training We have already discussed the importance of your puppy learning rules for your home. A simple method to help with this is leash training. Years ago a trainer taught me this trick to help my puppy learn boundaries and rules for inside. Its pretty simple actually. Keep your puppy attached to a leash and attached to you at all times except when he is in the crate. (DO NOT leave the leash on your puppy inside a crate . This can be very dangerous.) This helps the puppy learn what is expected of him. He will observe you very closely and learn easily what you do and do not want. This helps you to be consistent because puppy is right there at all times. Remember corrections have to be doe in real time/immediately. Even waiting for 5 minutes will confuse your puppy. This method also helps your puppy with potty training. A puppy will not go in close range of where they are sitting or laying down. This also gives you the chance to observe your puppy’s body language. By learning this from your puppy, you will know when he needs to go outside, when he wants to play, cuddle, or take a nap. This also encourages a stronger bond with your puppy. Using this method also desensitizes your puppy to the leash. So when it is finally time to start walking your puppy (after all of its shots are complete) it will not have that fear.

Guide on feeding puppies through their first year and maintaining proper body weights. How Much to Feed Most vets and breeders agree puppies can be moved to adult foods after 12 months of age, depending on the breed, size, and current physical development. Several factors will play into the amount of food you feed your puppy. This includes the dogs age, current weight, anticipated adult weight, her breed, the environment she’s in (including the climate), and activity level. Puppies eat much more for their weight than adult dogs, and young puppies actually eat quite a bit more than older puppies. Young puppies should be fed three times a day, whereas older puppies often do well with twice- daily feedings. The feeding guidelines on the back of a dog food bag can give you some guidelines on portions to feed, but remember those are only general guidelines. There's no one-size-fits-all amount that every puppy should be fed. It can also change depending on what type of food you choose. Raw-fed puppies need a larger volume of food than kibble-fed puppies, because raw food contains less fat and calories per ounce. Another common feeding guideline is to allow your pup to eat at her own pace for about 10-15 minutes three times a day. Monitor your puppy’s feeding time closely and possibly separate her from other dogs to avoid the older dogs taking her food. We highly recommend to start desensitizing or training away food aggression while feeding your puppy. This should begin the first week you bring your puppy home. It is something that an adult to should do. Simply hand feed your puppy a couple of kibble pieces. Then place your hand in the food bowl while your puppy is eating as well as touching the outside of the bowl and near the food. Always positively reward the puppy for good behavior. We do suggest that you do NOT just reach into the bowl and take the food away. We highly recommend feeding your puppy soaked kibble until at least 12 weeks of age. Why do we recommend this? For starters, Puppies do not chew their food very well. Add that to the fact that puppies have a lot more mucus in their mouths and throats than an adult dog. This makes it harder for them to properly swallow. This means they have a much higher risk of choking. Soaking kibble is also something that greatly reduces the risk of bloat in dogs. Many breeders and dog owners actually feed soaked kibble throughout their dog's lifetime for this reason. Another benefit to soaking kibble is it reduces risk of UTI 's. This is because puppies are constantly getting lots of water. To soak kibble , simply place the kibble in the dog bowl and add warm or cold water. I always fill to just above the food. Then let it sit for about 20-30 minutes or until it isn’t soupy. Time may depend on the humidity in your home. Remember, there is no one size fits all plan for every puppy. So you should discuss your own puppy’s caloric needs with your vet.

These are photos of past and current litters. Please check each litter's gallery for individual photos. We add to them weekly. Past Litters These Puppies have all Gone to their forever homes. For complete photo galleries, please see the individual Litter gallery pages. 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1 1/1

Color genetics for dogs can be very complex. This is just a short explanation of the basics on color genetics. Defining Colors Its important to start with the basic sold colors of a dog. This Is the B locus. All dogs have a base coat of either Black or Chocolate (Brown). You can typically determine by the eye if they are Black or Chocolate based on the pigment of their nose. Genetically testing your dog is always best to determine proper genetics. If there are no other genes in the genetic makeup of the Black or Chocolate dog, you will see a solid Black or Chocolate dog. Black is a dominant color gene, so it requires only one copy of the Black gene to give you Black. Chocolate is recessive and requires two copies of the gene and therefore both parents need to carry Chocolate. The gene that determines Black or Chocolate is the B locus. B/B or B/b = Black (remember that dominant colors are capitol letters) and b/b = Chocolate (Brown). The colors white, cream, apricot and red are all produced by the same gene. This is the E Locus. It is a recessive gene so you need two copies of this gene for it to show in their coat. These dogs can have either Black or Chocolate pigmentation. This gene gives a range of shades within it, going from white to red. So if I breed a white to a red, I can get a range of colors in between. (It is also important to note, that the K locus and A locus will not be expressed if a puppy is genetically e/e. Remember that lower case is recessive.) E/E or E/e = No White, Cream, Apricot or Red and e/e = White, Cream, Apricot or Red. When it comes to dogs, sometimes colors and patterns can be breed specific. For example, the harlequin gene in most commonly found in a Great Dane. This is a gene whose color pattern results in black patches of color on a white base. Its important to understand that all harlequin coated dogs carry one copy of the merle gene. However dogs without the Merle gene or color pattern can carry the gene for harlequin. The same can be said for a brindle gene. It is not found in every breed and certainly not every doodle. Phantom Brindle and Sable color is the result of two genes working together. The first gene is the K locus. There is a dominant gene, Kb, and a recessive gene, Ky. Kb is a blocking gene that does not allow the expression of the A locus. A locus is the second gene needed to produce phantoms/sables. Therefore if you have even one Kb gene in a line, the A locus can not be expressed at all. This holds no matter what the genes are on that locus. The Brindle gene is believed to be found on the K locus and only needs one copy to be expressed. Kb/Kb, Kb/Kbr or Kb/Ky = No expression on A locus. If you end up with Kbr/Kbr or Kbr/Ky = Brindle Expressed (not all genetic testing companies test specifically for this and it can be controversial). Ky/Ky = Expression of A locus allowed. The coat colors that show on a Solid Black and Chocolate (brown) are determined by the A locus. This tiered system is as follows: Ay/Ay = Sable, Ay/At = Sable Phantom, At/At or At/a= Phantom and last a/a = Solid Colored. Parti The S locus controls the placement of the white in a dog. It also controls how much white is in a dogs coat. We call this Parti. It is white markings on any other color already noted above. Parti is a recessive gene. This is a color that you wont typically see in F1 generations. However you can get parti’s in F1b or above generations. Remember that Solid colors are dominant and parti colors are recessive. S/S or S/sp = Solid Color and sp/sp = Parti Color. The S Locus also has untestable sub-loci, so some aspects of how the S Locus affects color are still unclear, perhaps even unknown. As a general rule however, dogs with SS will be solid or may have abstract patterns (areas of white on the face, chest & paws). This Abstract gene can be seen often in F1 Bernedoodles. Ssp will typically have 50% or less white such as abstract and tuxedo patterns. Last, spsp will have 50% or more white. These are typically considered "parti". As a general rule, parti is more than 50% white and will often have a broken color pattern down the back. There are however, exceptions to this. Abstract colors are often a result of a dog carrying one parti gene. Its important to remember that not all abstract carry parti and not all parti carriers have abstract markings. The D locus in dogs is a dilute gene. Silvers are thought to be caused by the D locus and that they are a recessive gene. This can be controversial also. A dd locus will result in a modification of the base color of the dog the D locus has. This turning a black dog silver, etc. There are varying degrees of sliver. The D gene will produce blues, charcoals and lilacs. Merle Now that we have discussed most other colors, we can now talk about the Merle pattern on a dog. The merle gene is extremely complex and just as controversial. Merle is a coat pattern with varying shades of blue/black or brown/red. It comes from the Allele M. In order to get a mere allele you need a dominant and recessive trait to produce this pattern. This is the merle allele (M) and one copy of the non-merle allele (m). The merle (M) allele is an incomplete-dominant (sometimes called a semi-dominant gene as well) gene, meaning it only takes one copy of the M allele to produce a merle. This mean that every merle dog has one copy of the merle allele (M) and one copy of the non-merle allele (m). In other words, every merle dog has an Mm genotype and every non-merle dog has an mm genotype. The term incomplete dominant means that one allele does not completely dominate another. When it comes to the merle gene, depending on which two alleles are inherited by each puppy, it can create an intermediate expression or a completely distinct pattern. There are now 4 Merle Scales. I have listed them below. Each scale rate the length of these Alleles differently. Depending on the scale used, there are either two, four or six different Alleles for M. Mc, Mc+, Ma, Ma+, M, Mh. Each Allele has a numeric value to gauge the level of pattern shown on the coat. This is the length of the Allele. The two distinct differences between the different scales is that the first 3 when compared with the “langevin et al” scale, the 4th is based on phenotype AND breeding results. The breeding results include HOMOZYGOUS result. The first 3 scales have only included heterozygous dogs in their research. m Non-Merle Wild Type Mc Cryptic Merle 200 - 230 bp Mc+ Cryptic Merle + 231 - 246 bp Ma Atypical Merle 247 - 254 bp Ma+ Atypical Merle + 255 - 264 bp M Merle 265 - 268 bp Mh Harlequin Merle 269 - 280 bp #1 - scale includes only 2 alleles, Mc and M, from a paper published in 2015, "Milushova et al". The length of the two alleles was set using the old testing method and based on phenotype. Dogs 252 bp and below were most likely to express no Merle pattern. Those 253 and above either had a noticeable Merle pattern or where starting to show signs of an unusual coat shading or faint pattern. #2 - scale as set by Paw Print Genetics "Ballif et al" including 4 alleles, Mc, Ma, M and Mh based on phenotype, with Ma starting at 247 bp which was a number already set by Biofocus with the help of Dr. Helena Synková in 2011. This leaves the Mc extending as far as 246 bp. #3 - scale from the "Murphy et al" (Dr Clark) paper including 4 alleles with Md (equivalent to Ma) starting at the same number as scale #1's M allele of 253 bp based on phenotype. This leaves a gap between Mc and Ma with Mc possibly extending to 252 bp. M and Mh overlap. NOTE - this paper uses T length numbers, I have converted them to base pairs for easier comparison. #4 - scale as defined by "langevin et al" with 6 alleles - Mc, Mc+, Ma, Ma+, M and Mh Here is the different Merle Allele length scales. These are the Merle Phenotypes: m/Mc No Merle pattern, no change to coat color or pigment shading. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/Mc No Merle pattern, may express as no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, there may be a slight change to coat color – pigment may express as faded or off-color or a slight brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, especially for long coated breeds. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. m/Mc+ No Merle pattern, no change to coat color or pigment shading. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc+/Mc+ No Merle pattern, may express as no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, there may be a slight change to coat color – pigment may express as faded or off-color or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, especially for long coated breeds. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. m/Ma No Merle pattern, may express with no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, may show a diluted coat expression even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. May express with a lighter undercoat especially on longer haired breeds. Lighter shaded areas may be visible on ears, neck, under tail and tail area. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/Ma No Merle pattern, may express with no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, may show a diluted coat expression even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b or express with a lighter undercoat especially on longer haired breeds. Lighter shaded areas may be visible on ears, neck, under tail and tail area. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Ma/Ma Most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, more diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of darker spotting. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. m/Ma+ Merle pattern is muted, not crisp and clear or as well defined as some breed standards may require, most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. Alternatively, some dogs may express with no Merle pattern, no dilution and no change to coat color or pigment shading. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/Ma+ Merle pattern is muted, not crisp and clear or as well defined as some breed standards may require, most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. Alternatively, some dogs may express with no Merle pattern, no dilution and no change to coat color or pigment shading. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc+/Ma+ Often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, more diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of spotting. As the base pairs of Ma+ progress closer to M, a more noticeable Tweed patterning may be present, larger areas of solid pigment may show. Blue eyes can be expressed. Some pigment may be deleted to white as the base pair numbers of Ma+ progress closer to M. Ma+/Ma+ Most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. More diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of spotting. Tweed patterning may be present. Blue eyes can be expressed. Pigment may be deleted to white. m/M Classic Merle pattern – random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/M Random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation. Tweed patterning may express. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc+/M Random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation. Tweed patterning may express. Blue eyes can be expressed. Some pigment may be deleted to white. Ma/M Often referred to as “Patchwork” with large areas of solid pigment mixed with areas of more diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of darker spotting. Tweed patterning often expressed. Blue eyes can be expressed. Some pigment often deleted to white. Ma+/M Most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. More diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of spotting. Extended white out of normal Irish Spotting pattern – up legs, past shoulders, white head often noted (seemingly not related to the “white-head” gene). Blue eyes can be expressed. Pigment can be deleted to white. M/M Random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation most often mixed with varying amounts of white. Blue eyes can be expressed. Pigment can be deleted to white. Mh The Mh allele has a broad range of phenotypes with 2 expressions that are very recognizable. #1 - “Minimal Merle” - a large percentage of the body features solid colored pigment with only small random areas of Merle patterning. Individuals may also express extended white out of the normal area of the typical Irish Spotting pattern – this may include a large white collar, white up legs past the elbow, white past shoulders extending onto withers and white on the belly extending up the side. This extended white is sometimes associated with S/sp - (Piebald Carrier), however many m/Mh dogs with this type of white pattern have tested as S/S. #2 - The more classic pattern that is often referred to as “Herding Harlequin” - Random diluted areas of Merle pigment are deleted to white, leaving solid patched areas that may be Tweed patterned including different shades. Some Merle areas may remain. The extended white patterning mentioned in description #1 may be present but is less noticeable due to the deleted white areas on the body. #3 - Some dogs may express more as m/M, yet are still able to produce offspring with a phenotype as described above in example #1 and #2 - these offspring have inherited the same length of base pairs as the parent and yet express in either of the 3 ways presented here. Mc/Mh, Mc+/Mh, Ma/Mh, M/Mh and Mh/Mh allelic combinations are phenotypically indistinguishable and present one homogenous phenotypic group. Of note, M/Mh and Mh/Mh may express with a greater percentage of white over the body. * Scale1. (Murphy Et Al) Base pair ranges that correspond to the four varieties of the merle phenotype: Note, there are gaps between cryptic/dilute and dilute/standard cryptic (212 - 242 bp), dilute (253 - 261 bp), standard (265 - 273 bp), and harlequin (268 - 292 bp).” * Scale 2. (Paw Print Genetics)200 – 246 Cryptic - Most cases are non-merle but in rare cases may have very small merle patch(es) or subtle color anomalies. 247 – 264 Atypical - Most cases show a significant shift from normal coat color often giving a diluted color, show reddish undertones, or have an otherwise atypical merle appearance. 265 – 269 Classic - Most cases show classic merle with a significant amount of merle color and pattering, although some cases may only show a minimal amount of merle. 270 – 280 Harlequin Most cases display patches of multiple shades of the same or different colors without white (tweed) or with white (harlequin) and are often referred to as patchwork. Their scale of “Cryptic” 200 - 246 bp includes both our Mc and Mc+ alleles, which can express different phenotypes when homozygous and also when inherited with different length alleles. The Mc allele as set with Vemodia at 230 bp will not delete pigment to white when combined with M. However when Mc+ is combined with M there is the possibility of pigment being deleted to white in the Merle pattern which some breed standards do not allow and could be a concern for impairments. Two Important distinctions comparing PPG to Langevin here are m/Ma does not create a Merle pattern whereas m/Ma+ can. Ma/Ma will not create white in the Merle pattern whereas Ma+/Ma+ can delete pigment to white. There can also be anomalies when it comes to genetics. Sometimes small area of that presents on a puppy can be a pigmentation and in fact is not minimal merle. This is caused by the Mc allele. This phenotype is commonly seen in breeds where "Whitehead" is common. Double Merles …. When a merle is bred to another merle, you get two merle alleles (MM). This is called a double merles (or double-dapples). What most don’t know, is that a double merle doesn’t look like a merle. They usually have a lot of white on their coat or can be almost pure white. The fully pigmented splotches are much smaller and the background color is much whiter. Is it possible to breed a Merle to a Merle. The long answer is Yes. IF you know what you are doing and do it correctly. the combination of Ma/Ma can not delete pigment to white so no risk of hearing or vision impairments. There is No deletion of pigment from Ma/Ma But a Possible pigment deletion with Ma+/Ma+. Most Breeders practice the NO breeding merle to merle. This is the safest route for most breeders who do not fully understand all there is to the merle genetics. Breeding a merle to merle if to done with the incorrect dogs who carry certain merle alleles can result in the dog having hearing loss in one or both ears. Having even a single M allele actually increases the chance of being deaf. However, the chance of an Mm merle (one parent is a merle and the other one is non merle) being bilaterally deaf is still less than 1%. The presence of two M genes, however, significantly increases the chance of deafness in the dog. Double-merle dogs also often have microphthalmia. This is a condition in which the eyes are abnormally small (sometimes even being barely there) and often nonfunctional. Essentially they are blind. They may also have abnormal pupils. It isn’t fully understood why this happens with the merle gene. Scientists believe that it's possibly due to the fact that the merle mutation affects melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin pigment. Melanocytes are found not only in the skin but in the eye and inner ear. They are also found in the bones and heart.which combinations of two Merle alleles can delete pigment to white and therefore come with the risk of hearing and/or vision impairments? Out of the 28 possible Merle allele combinations there are 14 that have the ability to delete pigment to white. This means that 14 combinations of the merle alleles from mating a merle to merl can result in a double merle with significant health issues. Mc+/Ma+, Ma/Ma+, Ma+/Ma+ Mc+/M, Ma/M, Ma+/M, M/M, m/Mh, Mc/Mh, Mc+/Mh, Ma/Mh, Ma+/Mh, M/Mh, Mh/Mh Note - the Mh allele can delete pigment even as heterozygous.

Bernedoodle Prices. Tricolor, Merle, Tricolor Merle, Parti, Solid Color, Black and White, Apricot and White Pricing Our puppies are competitively priced. We offer a quality, healthy puppy for less than other puppies offered of similiar quality. The prices of each puppy may be different based on colors that are more rare or harder to produce. We reserve the right to Increase or Decrease these prices.(this will always be done before the sale of a puppy) Merles & Tri-Color Merles $2,500 + taxes Tri-Colors, Phantoms, Sables $2,200 + taxes All Other Colors $2,000 + taxes