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We are a smaller family breeder of quality bred, healthy Mini Bernedoodles (mini means medium in size). These puppies are raised in our home with our family. All parents are Health tested. Puppies will come up to date with vet care and vaccinations up to 8 weeks old, microchipped and with a care package. They are able to go home at 8 weeks of age. Dams & Sires We take the upmost pride in all of our dogs. They are all raised in our home with love. All of our parents have been health tested. Results of each parent will be listed next to their picture on this page. Our dogs temperaments are just as important to us. All of our dogs are gentle, friendly, outgoing, good with children, have a willingness to please, train easily and are healthy. Dams Sires Luna Luna is a F1B Mini Bernedoodle. She is a Blue Merle Parti. Luna is a very sweet, calm, intelligent, eager to please girl who absolutely loves people. She was a dream to train & Grooms easily. This girl brings a smile to everyone who meets her. Luna's Testing Expresses Merle- M*m GM2 Gangliosidosis (HEXB, Poodle Variant)- Clear *Intervertebral Disc Disease (Type I) (FGF4 retrogene - CFA12)- Clear *Neonatal Encephalopathy with Seizures, NEWS (ATF2)- Clear *Osteochondrodysplasia (SLC13A1, Poodle Variant) *Progressive Retinal Atrophy, prcd (PRCD Exon 1) *Von Willebrand Disease Type I, Type I vWD (VWF)- Clear *Degenerative Myelopathy, DM (SOD1A)- Clear Ollivander Ollivander is an AKC registred Standard Poodle. He is a White & Brown Parti. Ollie is on the small side for a standard Poodle.He is extremely smart, gentle natured and is a dream to train & groom. Ollie is an old soul for sure. Ollivander's Testing No Merle Gene- mm *GM2 Gangliosidosis (HEXB, Poodle Variant)- Clear *Intervertebral Disc Disease (Type I) (FGF4 retrogene - CFA12)- Clear *Neonatal Encephalopathy with Seizures, NEWS (ATF2)- Clear *Osteochondrodysplasia (SLC13A1, Poodle Variant) *Progressive Retinal Atrophy, prcd (PRCD Exon 1) *Von Willebrand Disease Type I, Type I vWD (VWF)- Clear *Degenerative Myelopathy, DM (SOD1A)- carrier Sizes We expect puppies from Luna and Ollivander to be between 30-55 pounds. These will be F1bb mini/moyen Bernedoodles. This means they will be medium in size and low to non-shedding. **PLEASE NOTE! All puppies can inherit genetics from multiple generations which includes genetics from the Bernese Mountain Dog and a poodle. For this reason, we can not guarantee size or coat quality. Your dog's diet and exercise can also have a big effect on their weight & health. Future liters will be announced here. Our next litter is coming soon! March of 2025. Vet confirmation will come in February. This will also give us an idea on litter size.

Past Litters These Puppies have all Gone to their forever homes. Reserved Sirius Born March 10th Sirius is a medium sized boy. He is a black and white Parti. We expect him to end up in the 40-55 pound range. Ready to Go home May 5th Reserved Hagrid Born March 10th Hagrid is a medium sized boy. He is a Tri-color Parti. We expect him to end up in the 40-50 pound range. Ready to Go home May 5th Reserved Myrtle Born March 10th Myrtle is our largest female and second largest puppy in this litter.She is a Blonde and white Parti. We expect she will end up on the larger end around 40-50 pounds. Ready to Go home May 5th Reserved Hermione Born March 10th Hermione is our smallest girl and smallest of the litter. She is a Blue Merle Parti. We expect her to be in the smaller range around 30-35 pounds. Ready to Go home May 5th Reserved Hedwig Born March 10th Hedwig is our other tiny tot. He is a Tri-color Blue Merle. He has Blue eyes. We expect him to end up around 35-40 pounds. Ready to Go home May 5th Reserved Lily Born March 10th Lily is our second smallest female. She is a Blonde & white Parti. We expect her to end up between 35-50 pounds. Ready to Go home May 5th Reserved Dobby Born March 10th Dobby is our sweet little tot. He is a Blonde and white Parti male. We expect hime to end up on the smaller side around 35 pounds. Ready to Go home May 5th Reserved Harry Potter Born March 10th Harry Potter is our largest puppy in the litter. He is a black and white Parti. We expect him to end up around 50-55 pounds. Ready to Go home May 5th

Available Puppies For more images of each puppy, please visit our Gallery Page. Reserved Olaf Born March 12th Olaf is a medium sized boy. He is a Honey/Apricot and White Parti. We expect him to end up in the 40-50 pound range. Ready to Go home May 7th Reserved Elsa Born March 12th Elsa is a medium sized girl. She is a Honey/Apricot and white Parti. We expect her to end up in the 40-50 pound range. Ready to Go home May 7th Reserved Stitch Born March 12th Stitch is a medium sized boy. He is a Blue Merle Parti. He has a possibility for blue eyes. We expect him to end up in the 45-55 pound range. Ready to Go home May 7th Reserved Eugene Born March 12th Eugene is a medium sized boy. He is a T ri-Color Blue Merle Parti. He has a possibility for blue eyes. We expect him to end up in the 45-55 pound range. Ready to Go home May 7th Reserved Jasmine Born March 12th Jasmine is a medium sized girl. She is a black and white Parti. We expect her to end up in the 40-50 pound range. Ready to Go home May 7th Reserved Belle Born March 12th. Belle is a medium sized girl. She is a Honey/Apricot and White Parti. We expect her to end up in the 40-50 pound range. Ready to Go home May 7th Reserved Moana Born March 12th Moana s is a medium sized girl. She is a T ri- Color black and white Parti. We expect her to end up in the 40-50 pound range. Ready to Go home May 7th Reserved Ariel Born March 12th Ariel is a medium sized girl. She is a Honey/Apricot and White Parti. We expect her to end up in the 40-50 pound range. Ready to Go home May 7th

Announcements We are proud to announce our Disney Litter. These beautiful pups were born on March 12 and will be ready to go home at 8-9 weeks of age. (May 7th-14th).

Females Males Disney Litter Contact Me

Females Males Harry Potter Litter Contact Me

Defining Colors Its important to start with the basic sold colors of a dog. This Is the B locus. All dogs have a base coat of either Black or Chocolate (Brown). You can typically determine by the eye if they are Black or Chocolate based on the pigment of their nose. Genetically testing your dog is always best to determine proper genetics. If there are no other genes in the genetic makeup of the Black or Chocolate dog, you will see a solid Black or Chocolate dog. Black is a dominant color gene, so it requires only one copy of the Black gene to give you Black. Chocolate is recessive and requires two copies of the gene and therefore both parents need to carry Chocolate. The gene that determines Black or Chocolate is the B locus. B/B or B/b = Black (remember that dominant colors are capitol letters) and b/b = Chocolate (Brown). The colors white, cream, apricot and red are all produced by the same gene. This is the E Locus. It is a recessive gene so you need two copies of this gene for it to show in their coat. These dogs can have either Black or Chocolate pigmentation. This gene gives a range of shades within it, going from white to red. So if I breed a white to a red, I can get a range of colors in between. (It is also important to note, that the K locus and A locus will not be expressed if a puppy is genetically e/e. Remember that lower case is recessive.) E/E or E/e = No White, Cream, Apricot or Red and e/e = White, Cream, Apricot or Red. When it comes to dogs, sometimes colors and patterns can be breed specific. For example, the harlequin gene in most commonly found in a Great Dane. This is a gene whose color pattern results in black patches of color on a white base. Its important to understand that all harlequin coated dogs carry one copy of the merle gene. However dogs without the Merle gene or color pattern can carry the gene for harlequin. The same can be said for a brindle gene. It is not found in every breed and certainly not every doodle. Phantom Brindle and Sable color is the result of two genes working together. The first gene is the K locus. There is a dominant gene, Kb, and a recessive gene, Ky. Kb is a blocking gene that does not allow the expression of the A locus. A locus is the second gene needed to produce phantoms/sables. Therefore if you have even one Kb gene in a line, the A locus can not be expressed at all. This holds no matter what the genes are on that locus. The Brindle gene is believed to be found on the K locus and only needs one copy to be expressed. Kb/Kb, Kb/Kbr or Kb/Ky = No expression on A locus. If you end up with Kbr/Kbr or Kbr/Ky = Brindle Expressed (not all genetic testing companies test specifically for this and it can be controversial). Ky/Ky = Expression of A locus allowed. The coat colors that show on a Solid Black and Chocolate (brown) are determined by the A locus. This tiered system is as follows: Ay/Ay = Sable, Ay/At = Sable Phantom, At/At or At/a= Phantom and last a/a = Solid Colored. Parti The S locus controls the placement of the white in a dog. It also controls how much white is in a dogs coat. We call this Parti. It is white markings on any other color already noted above. Parti is a recessive gene. This is a color that you wont typically see in F1 generations. However you can get parti’s in F1b or above generations. Remember that Solid colors are dominant and parti colors are recessive. S/S or S/sp = Solid Color and sp/sp = Parti Color. The S Locus also has untestable sub-loci, so some aspects of how the S Locus affects color are still unclear, perhaps even unknown. As a general rule however, dogs with SS will be solid or may have abstract patterns (areas of white on the face, chest & paws). This Abstract gene can be seen often in F1 Bernedoodles. Ssp will typically have 50% or less white such as abstract and tuxedo patterns. Last, spsp will have 50% or more white. These are typically considered "parti". As a general rule, parti is more than 50% white and will often have a broken color pattern down the back. There are however, exceptions to this. Abstract colors are often a result of a dog carrying one parti gene. Its important to remember that not all abstract carry parti and not all parti carriers have abstract markings. The D locus in dogs is a dilute gene. Silvers are thought to be caused by the D locus and that they are a recessive gene. This can be controversial also. A dd locus will result in a modification of the base color of the dog the D locus has. This turning a black dog silver, etc. There are varying degrees of sliver. The D gene will produce blues, charcoals and lilacs. Merle Now that we have discussed most other colors, we can now talk about the Merle pattern on a dog. The merle gene is extremely complex and just as controversial. Merle is a coat pattern with varying shades of blue/black or brown/red. It comes from the Allele M. In order to get a mere allele you need a dominant and recessive trait to produce this pattern. This is the merle allele (M) and one copy of the non-merle allele (m). The merle (M) allele is an incomplete-dominant (sometimes called a semi-dominant gene as well) gene, meaning it only takes one copy of the M allele to produce a merle. This mean that every merle dog has one copy of the merle allele (M) and one copy of the non-merle allele (m). In other words, every merle dog has an Mm genotype and every non-merle dog has an mm genotype. The term incomplete dominant means that one allele does not completely dominate another. When it comes to the merle gene, depending on which two alleles are inherited by each puppy, it can create an intermediate expression or a completely distinct pattern. There are now 4 Merle Scales. I have listed them below. Each scale rate the length of these Alleles differently. Depending on the scale used, there are either two, four or six different Alleles for M. Mc, Mc+, Ma, Ma+, M, Mh. Each Allele has a numeric value to gauge the level of pattern shown on the coat. This is the length of the Allele. The two distinct differences between the different scales is that the first 3 when compared with the “langevin et al” scale, the 4th is based on phenotype AND breeding results. The breeding results include HOMOZYGOUS result. The first 3 scales have only included heterozygous dogs in their research. m Non-Merle Wild Type Mc Cryptic Merle 200 - 230 bp Mc+ Cryptic Merle + 231 - 246 bp Ma Atypical Merle 247 - 254 bp Ma+ Atypical Merle + 255 - 264 bp M Merle 265 - 268 bp Mh Harlequin Merle 269 - 280 bp #1 - scale includes only 2 alleles, Mc and M, from a paper published in 2015, "Milushova et al". The length of the two alleles was set using the old testing method and based on phenotype. Dogs 252 bp and below were most likely to express no Merle pattern. Those 253 and above either had a noticeable Merle pattern or where starting to show signs of an unusual coat shading or faint pattern. #2 - scale as set by Paw Print Genetics "Ballif et al" including 4 alleles, Mc, Ma, M and Mh based on phenotype, with Ma starting at 247 bp which was a number already set by Biofocus with the help of Dr. Helena Synková in 2011. This leaves the Mc extending as far as 246 bp. #3 - scale from the "Murphy et al" (Dr Clark) paper including 4 alleles with Md (equivalent to Ma) starting at the same number as scale #1's M allele of 253 bp based on phenotype. This leaves a gap between Mc and Ma with Mc possibly extending to 252 bp. M and Mh overlap. NOTE - this paper uses T length numbers, I have converted them to base pairs for easier comparison. #4 - scale as defined by "langevin et al" with 6 alleles - Mc, Mc+, Ma, Ma+, M and Mh Here is the different Merle Allele length scales. These are the Merle Phenotypes: m/Mc No Merle pattern, no change to coat color or pigment shading. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/Mc No Merle pattern, may express as no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, there may be a slight change to coat color – pigment may express as faded or off-color or a slight brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, especially for long coated breeds. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. m/Mc+ No Merle pattern, no change to coat color or pigment shading. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc+/Mc+ No Merle pattern, may express as no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, there may be a slight change to coat color – pigment may express as faded or off-color or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, especially for long coated breeds. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. m/Ma No Merle pattern, may express with no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, may show a diluted coat expression even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. May express with a lighter undercoat especially on longer haired breeds. Lighter shaded areas may be visible on ears, neck, under tail and tail area. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/Ma No Merle pattern, may express with no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, may show a diluted coat expression even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b or express with a lighter undercoat especially on longer haired breeds. Lighter shaded areas may be visible on ears, neck, under tail and tail area. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Ma/Ma Most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, more diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of darker spotting. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. m/Ma+ Merle pattern is muted, not crisp and clear or as well defined as some breed standards may require, most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. Alternatively, some dogs may express with no Merle pattern, no dilution and no change to coat color or pigment shading. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/Ma+ Merle pattern is muted, not crisp and clear or as well defined as some breed standards may require, most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. Alternatively, some dogs may express with no Merle pattern, no dilution and no change to coat color or pigment shading. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc+/Ma+ Often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, more diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of spotting. As the base pairs of Ma+ progress closer to M, a more noticeable Tweed patterning may be present, larger areas of solid pigment may show. Blue eyes can be expressed. Some pigment may be deleted to white as the base pair numbers of Ma+ progress closer to M. Ma+/Ma+ Most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. More diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of spotting. Tweed patterning may be present. Blue eyes can be expressed. Pigment may be deleted to white. m/M Classic Merle pattern – random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/M Random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation. Tweed patterning may express. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc+/M Random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation. Tweed patterning may express. Blue eyes can be expressed. Some pigment may be deleted to white. Ma/M Often referred to as “Patchwork” with large areas of solid pigment mixed with areas of more diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of darker spotting. Tweed patterning often expressed. Blue eyes can be expressed. Some pigment often deleted to white. Ma+/M Most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. More diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of spotting. Extended white out of normal Irish Spotting pattern – up legs, past shoulders, white head often noted (seemingly not related to the “white-head” gene). Blue eyes can be expressed. Pigment can be deleted to white. M/M Random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation most often mixed with varying amounts of white. Blue eyes can be expressed. Pigment can be deleted to white. Mh The Mh allele has a broad range of phenotypes with 2 expressions that are very recognizable. #1 - “Minimal Merle” - a large percentage of the body features solid colored pigment with only small random areas of Merle patterning. Individuals may also express extended white out of the normal area of the typical Irish Spotting pattern – this may include a large white collar, white up legs past the elbow, white past shoulders extending onto withers and white on the belly extending up the side. This extended white is sometimes associated with S/sp - (Piebald Carrier), however many m/Mh dogs with this type of white pattern have tested as S/S. #2 - The more classic pattern that is often referred to as “Herding Harlequin” - Random diluted areas of Merle pigment are deleted to white, leaving solid patched areas that may be Tweed patterned including different shades. Some Merle areas may remain. The extended white patterning mentioned in description #1 may be present but is less noticeable due to the deleted white areas on the body. #3 - Some dogs may express more as m/M, yet are still able to produce offspring with a phenotype as described above in example #1 and #2 - these offspring have inherited the same length of base pairs as the parent and yet express in either of the 3 ways presented here. Mc/Mh, Mc+/Mh, Ma/Mh, M/Mh and Mh/Mh allelic combinations are phenotypically indistinguishable and present one homogenous phenotypic group. Of note, M/Mh and Mh/Mh may express with a greater percentage of white over the body. * Scale1. (Murphy Et Al) Base pair ranges that correspond to the four varieties of the merle phenotype: Note, there are gaps between cryptic/dilute and dilute/standard cryptic (212 - 242 bp), dilute (253 - 261 bp), standard (265 - 273 bp), and harlequin (268 - 292 bp).” * Scale 2. (Paw Print Genetics)200 – 246 Cryptic - Most cases are non-merle but in rare cases may have very small merle patch(es) or subtle color anomalies. 247 – 264 Atypical - Most cases show a significant shift from normal coat color often giving a diluted color, show reddish undertones, or have an otherwise atypical merle appearance. 265 – 269 Classic - Most cases show classic merle with a significant amount of merle color and pattering, although some cases may only show a minimal amount of merle. 270 – 280 Harlequin Most cases display patches of multiple shades of the same or different colors without white (tweed) or with white (harlequin) and are often referred to as patchwork. Their scale of “Cryptic” 200 - 246 bp includes both our Mc and Mc+ alleles, which can express different phenotypes when homozygous and also when inherited with different length alleles. The Mc allele as set with Vemodia at 230 bp will not delete pigment to white when combined with M. However when Mc+ is combined with M there is the possibility of pigment being deleted to white in the Merle pattern which some breed standards do not allow and could be a concern for impairments. Two Important distinctions comparing PPG to Langevin here are m/Ma does not create a Merle pattern whereas m/Ma+ can. Ma/Ma will not create white in the Merle pattern whereas Ma+/Ma+ can delete pigment to white. There can also be anomalies when it comes to genetics. Sometimes small area of that presents on a puppy can be a pigmentation and in fact is not minimal merle. This is caused by the Mc allele. This phenotype is commonly seen in breeds where "Whitehead" is common. Double Merles …. When a merle is bred to another merle, you get two merle alleles (MM). This is called a double merles (or double-dapples). What most don’t know, is that a double merle doesn’t look like a merle. They usually have a lot of white on their coat or can be almost pure white. The fully pigmented splotches are much smaller and the background color is much whiter. Is it possible to breed a Merle to a Merle. The long answer is Yes. IF you know what you are doing and do it correctly. the combination of Ma/Ma can not delete pigment to white so no risk of hearing or vision impairments. There is No deletion of pigment from Ma/Ma But a Possible pigment deletion with Ma+/Ma+. Most Breeders practice the NO breeding merle to merle. This is the safest route for most breeders who do not fully understand all there is to the merle genetics. Breeding a merle to merle if to done with the incorrect dogs who carry certain merle alleles can result in the dog having hearing loss in one or both ears. Having even a single M allele actually increases the chance of being deaf. However, the chance of an Mm merle (one parent is a merle and the other one is non merle) being bilaterally deaf is still less than 1%. The presence of two M genes, however, significantly increases the chance of deafness in the dog. Double-merle dogs also often have microphthalmia. This is a condition in which the eyes are abnormally small (sometimes even being barely there) and often nonfunctional. Essentially they are blind. They may also have abnormal pupils. It isn’t fully understood why this happens with the merle gene. Scientists believe that it's possibly due to the fact that the merle mutation affects melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin pigment. Melanocytes are found not only in the skin but in the eye and inner ear. They are also found in the bones and heart.which combinations of two Merle alleles can delete pigment to white and therefore come with the risk of hearing and/or vision impairments? Out of the 28 possible Merle allele combinations there are 14 that have the ability to delete pigment to white. This means that 14 combinations of the merle alleles from mating a merle to merl can result in a double merle with significant health issues. Mc+/Ma+, Ma/Ma+, Ma+/Ma+ Mc+/M, Ma/M, Ma+/M, M/M, m/Mh, Mc/Mh, Mc+/Mh, Ma/Mh, Ma+/Mh, M/Mh, Mh/Mh Note - the Mh allele can delete pigment even as heterozygous.

Recommended Items for your New Puppy & Things your new Puppy will come home with. (not everything shown on this page will be sent home by us, many are just recommendations.) Top Grooming Products We Recommend And Use Ourselves. Cowboy Magic Shine In Yellow-out Purple Shampoo: This shampoo helps to brighten hair of all colors while neutralizing yellow stains. It doesn’t dry out your puppy’s skin and it smells wonderful. It truly works wonders for our white fur babies. Earthbath Oatmeal & Aloe Conditioner: This helps to detangle while relieving itching. This is great for all dogs but especially those with allergies, itching, and dry skin. It is non toxic, paraben and sulfate free, phthalate free, phosphate free, dye free, and soap free. We love the conditioner to this as well. Nootie Skin & Coat Solutions Sweet Pea & Vanilla Whitening Conditioner. This Bleach-free shampoo has the delicate fresh scent of Sweet Pea & Vanilla combined with Jojoba Oil to gently cleanse and nourish dry, stressed coats. It naturally brightens and whitens the coat while removing stains. There are NO sulfates or harsh chemicals, soap & paraben-free formula is made with all natural ingredients so you know its safe for your furry friend. The Chris Christensen Collection of Slicker Brushes: These are a line of high-quality grooming brushes designed to penetrate deep into your pet's coat to remove tangles, mats, and loose hair without causing discomfort or damage to their skin caused by impacted matting. T This brush works through dense coats all the way to the root. They work great to: detangle and remove knots in long and difficult to manage coats & to get down to the root and remove hard-to-reach undercoat. It helps to thin and separate hairs throughout the coat creating lift and volume. he collection includes various sizes, from "Baby" to “Big”. Typically this brush is available in 3 different sizes and a few different styles. You can choose the size & style that's best suited for your pet's coat type and size. It is widely used at dog shows and is highly regarded among professional dog handlers, groomers, and exhibitors. The brand is known for its high-quality grooming tools. Please make sure to use the appropriate size for the size of your dog. It’s also a good idea to have a Buttercomb on hand to aid you in working through mattes. Curly hair gets tangles EASILY! Grooming Please Understand that all Doodles will require Grooming by a professional. Since your Doodle has hair that continuously grows, it will need to be brushed several times a week to prevent mattes as much as possible, When doodles gets mattes, they become painful to their skin as it pulls and pulls the tighter it gets. Mattes can also cause all kinds of other skin conditions of not treated properly. Regular professional grooming will be needed for their lifetime starting after your puppy has had ALLLLLL of their shots (usually the is 16 weeks of age). This is NOT cheap. Most grooming start around $75 for a medium/moyen/mini sized doodle. Larger sizes cost more. The cost of grooming your doodle will also increase with the more matting it has. Other Puppy Necessities A crate: Metal sided is preferred as puppy’s can chew and scratch easily damaging the plastic ones. The crate is going to be your number one training tool! This is the safest place for your puppy when you can't be watching him and it will keep your furniture, shoes, and electronic devices out of harm’s way! We recommend something like the MidWest Puppy Play pens with a 1" grate on the bottom. These types of pens have a removable metal tray on the bottom to catch accidents and spills. This way if puppy does have an accident, they will not be stepping in their urine or feces and will stay clean. Just simply line the trays with newspaper or puppy pads. This can relieve a lot of the stress in the potty training process. Plus, you can put a bed in them for the puppy’s comfort. It doesn’t need to be any particular brand, just make sure it is safe and the right size for your puppy. You do not want your crate to be to large when they are little. When buying one that can grow with your puppy, you will want one with a moveable divider to section of space so puppy wont go and potty in another area. Puppy Play Pen: A puppy play pen (as pictured above) is nice to have to connect to the crate, so he can have some room to exercise while you are away. To do this, you simply place the Play pen surrounding the crate and leave the crate doors open. If you don't opt to buy one of these or do not have the space, then you can enrich their time away from you by giving them a frozen Kong treat. To do this, simply fill the Kong toy with some Dog safe peanut butter or Plain Greek Yogurt. Once it is full, you put the Kong it the freezer until frozen. It is recommend to do this ahead of time. Baby gates/Indoor fencing : These gates are great tools for sectioning off your home and keeping your pup in certain areas of your home! They also enable you to keep track of her when you can not watch them at every minute. A lot if times you can “kill two birds with one stone” here. The above style Playpen also serves as an indoor fence allowing you to section off an area of your home. The often are very diverse in the shape and size you need. Paper Towels: Lots of them! Accidents happen! Rags you don’t care about will also work! Just know that you will be cleaning up accidents. Puppies do not do this to make you upset. They are so small that they can NOT old their bladders for long. Think of a human baby trying to hold their bladder at 2 months of age….or even 6 months. It hard for them to learn. They will eventually get it with consistent training and patience. Pet Stain and odor remover: Nature's Miracle is a wonderful product, It is a bacteria based formula which produces enzymes to target pet stains. It works great and is tough on dog urine, feces, vomit, drool and other organic stains and odors. It has a light scent so it wont over power your nose. It is safe for use on carpets, hard floors, furniture, fabrics and more when used as directed. I now that there are many different brands on the market today. It is an ever revolving door of pet supplies. This is a good thing as you'll find that pet-specific cleaning products come in handy long after your new puppy is housebroken. Puppy’s food: We will provide your puppy with a small amount of the food we feed. I choose to feed a mixture of Canidae Real Salmon & Ancient Grains (All Life Stages) & Wellness Complete Health Large Breed Puppy food. Royal Canine is another brand I recommend. We strongly recommend feeding soaked kibble until 12 weeks old. Many choose to do it for the lifetime of the dog. If you are planning on switching puppy’s diet, please do this slowly! There are so many changes going on in your new puppy's life right now. Drastically changing his diet will cause an upset stomach and diarrhea. (This happens to all dogs at any stage of life when changing their food but especially to already stressed out puppies.) Slowly wean him off his old diet by mixing new food in with his old food in small amounts. Gradually increasing the amount of the new food. Please ONLY feed your new puppy, Puppy food specifically meant for dogs. Day 1: 75% old food, 25% new food Day 2: 70% old food, 30% new food. Day 3: 60% old food, 40% new food. Day 4: 50% old food, 50% new food. Day 5: 40% old food, 60% new food. Day 6: 25% old food, 75% new food. Day 7: 100% new food. Food and Water Bowls: Bowls are often a fun thing to pick out for your puppy. There is a lot of controversy about whether or not to have a raised dish. Current science states it is NOT recommended. However it always best to speak with your vet about this as BLOAT can be a big problem for deep chested dogs. This being said, I always recommend a weighted dish for both food and water. It often comes in handy with puppies who like to frolic in their bowl. Or who just want to knock their dishes completely over so mom and dad can play the pick up game! Poop bags: Start collecting these in advance, you are going to have lots of puppy poop to pick up. Some people like to recycle those plastic grocery bags to do this. When your puppy has finally had all of its shots, you will finally be able to go for walks. For this it is wise to get one of those poop bag containers that attach to your leash. Identification: All of our puppies will come microchipped to us. Make sure you register your puppy's microchip and the microchip ID as SOON as you get home. Although she already has it implanted, the number won't lead her back to you until you register it. The ID number is found her vet inspection document and also on a card included in the folder. The microchip company usually has a onetime, reasonable fee for this service. We don't want to risk even a moment of puppy being without some form of identification! We also recommend adding a tag to your puppy's collar with a scannable QR code or engraved contact information. Please remember to remove the collar when your pup is in her crate- it is a choking risk to leave it on. Contact a reputable trainer: I can NOT stress this enough! Please contact a reputable dog trainer and enroll your puppy into puppy classes. This will greatly enrich the bond between you and your dog. Truthfully it will help mold your dog into the wonderful family member you dreamed of having. Trust me when I say this is NEVER without a lot of hard work. It will also greatly reduce the frustration with your dog when you go with to the puppy classes because they teach you how train your puppy at home and in public. Remember training a dog is a marathon, not a sprint. Puppy safe toys: The toys that are deemed safe for dogs are always changing. Please ALWAYS watch your puppy will they are playing with anything. Kongs are by far one of the safest brands. However even a strong chewer can break these toys. *IMPORTANT* any small parts or squeakers on any toy can be chewed off and swallowed. This can not only be a choking hazard but it easily can become a BLOCKAGE in your puppies intestines. This is an emergency requiring surgery to fix IF you catch it on time. Bernedoodles and Poodles are both notorious for their infamous love of socks and underwear. Please be very vigilant about not letting your puppy/dog snatch and eat these things. This is again why I stress indoor leash training. This also helps to prevent your puppy from eating things they shouldn’t that can cause a blockage. What we send home with your New Puppy: The day your new fur baby comes home is such an exciting and memorable day. Your puppy comes with all required vet vaccinations until 8 weeks old. They all have dew claws removed. (Sometimes the dew claws do grow back. If this happens, it will be your choice to remove them during spay/neuter or leave them alone. We do not cover the cost.) We as your breeder will be sending you home with a bag filled with a few items. 1. Vaccinations & Deworming - Your puppy will come dewormed & with all vaccinations required up until the age of 8 weeks old. This will be reflected on your puppy vet record. This will show all of your puppies deworming and vaccinations received prior to going to their new homes. You will also receive a certificate of health from their vet appointment prior to going home. When you get home with your new puppy, it is now your responsibility to ensure the health of your puppy throughout the rest of its life. We require that you take your new puppy to your vet within 3 days of leaving our care & arriving to your home. 2 . Reusable Whimsy Doodle Tote Bag- All puppy items we are sending home will come in a reusable custom made bag that you can use for other things in the future. These are great bags to use when you travel or even for the grocery store. These make excellent bags for the beach! 3. A Microchip- Each puppy will go home Microchipped . This is service I provide to protect my puppies from ever ending up in a shelter. Please make sure to contact the microchip company and add your information ASAP. 4. A Blanket- Your puppy will be coming home with its very own fleece blanket. These blankets have been exposed to your puppies mom and liter for their smell. This is to help your puppy adjust when going to its new home. These blankets can be washed however I would wait at least a week or two until your puppy has adjusted without his mom and liter mates. 5. Toys- I am sending each puppy home with TWO toys. One is a small Kong meant for chewing. I use the same toy here for your puppy while growing up with mom so they will be familiar with it. The second toy is a larger toy made by the Kong brand. Please always watch your dog while they interact with any toy to make sure they are not swallowing pieces/parts they shouldn’t be. 5.Puppy Food- I send each puppy home with a small bag (a weeks worth) of the food we food feed, Cani dae Real Salmon & Ancient Grains (All Life Stages) & Wellness Complete Health Large Breed Puppy Food mixed together . This is to ensure that you can switch puppies food slowly if need be. If you are not switching puppies food to a new brand, then you can simply add what we provide to what you have a ready purchased. 6. A Binder- Your puppy will also be going home with a binder filled with lots of information about new puppies and your puppy. It will also hold a copy of your contract that you have already signed. 7.Poop Bags- 1 Bag of small bags specifically made to collect poop when in public. 8.Snuggle Puppy- * New this year.... I have decided to add a Snuggle Puppy to each Puppy bag. Each puppy will have their own stuffed snuggle puppy that provides warmth and comfort while soothing your little one.These can aid you in crate training your puppy by reducing barking, whining and nervousness. Each of them includes a heart that provides a real-feel heart beat with 2 different modes. They also come with a disposable warming pack. 9.Treats- * New this year.... I am adding in a package of puppy Treats so you can begin your new puppy's training right away. They are Soft Puppy bites, Lamb & Salmon recipe, from Wellness. This is the same brand as food I provide. * * * * * I do not provide collars, leashes or harnesses, crates, playpens or any grooming necessities. These will all be the responsibility of the new pet owner as is any future veterinary needs. It is the buys responsibility to educate themselves on the needs of puppies and how to protect them once they leave my care. What NOT to do when going home with your new puppy . Once your puppy leaves my care, the responsibility to protect this puppy falls to the new owner. We all know how exciting it can be to get a new puppy and we want to show them off to the world. However one of the worst things you can do is start exposing your puppy to a bunch of public places and new people who can carry diseases. When you leave with your puppy, it is HIGHLY recommended to never put your puppy down on grass in a public place. Lots of people take their dogs in public. Those dogs can carry diseases and unintentionally spread them. (they are protected with vaccinations themselves but can still carry them. However, it isn’t just other dogs (or animals in general) that carry & spread these diseases. People can also carry deadly diseases on their clothing, the bottom of their shoes or even hands. Instead when you take your new puppy in public, use disposable potty pads to place on the ground so they can potty if you can not wait until you get home. It's best to avoid contact with the ground at all. When going to public places, keep your puppy in a carrier on your body and DO NOT let others have contact with your puppy without proper precautions. (Clean fresh clothes that haven’t had contact with other pets/animals, shoes off and hands washed.) People in public that you do not know/trust can look with their eyes. Best practice is to leave your new puppy at home until he has had all of his vaccinations. Remember that diseases like Parvo can live on surfaces (including outdoors) for 6 months to a year.

Contract Acknowledgement Agreement Genetic Health Warranty & Sales Contract Acknowledgement Agreement We provide a One year limited Warranty until the puppy is one year of age. This warranty covers some fatal and life altering congenital diseases. This includes heart, pancreas, spine and liver problems of a severe, life threatening or fatal nature. We do NOT pay any vet bills for your puppy after they leave our care at 8 weeks. If your puppy is diagnosed with something that is severe and/or fatal within the first year of life, we require proof from a licensed veterinarian, a second opinion must also be obtained from a licensed veterinarian. If proof is obtained from two licensed veterinarians, then we will give you the option of returning him/her with a partial refund (total cost minus the non-refundable deposit unless Whimsy Doodles agrees to a complete refund.) OR you could also choose a replacement puppy of equal value (must be same breed and color). A replacement puppy may not be immediately available. If this is the case, we will place your name in the Reserved list for the next liter. This is NOT the complete contract. This is a Contract Acknowledgement Agreement. The buyer does need to sign this form to acknowledge that they have read the terms and agree to them. We will email the buyer a copy of the Contract to be signed after the deposit is received. The buyer can sign this and the emailed copy on the same days they can read the full terms. We work hard to ensure every puppy goes home healthy. We deworm them multiple times before they leave our care and property. Each puppy is also preventatively treated for Coccidia. All of our Puppies will be up to date on vaccinations before they go. It is your responsibility to be sure to continue all other vaccines that your veterinarian recommends. This is required in order to validate the Health Warranty.In order to validate our healthy warranty: We ask that your puppy/dog see a vet for a basic puppy exam within the first 3 days of leaving our home and going to your home. You will need to set up a vaccination plan and follow through with all needed vaccinations. The buyer agrees to provide veterinary care for this puppy for the entirety of its life, including annual heart worm preventatives (heart worm tests as needed) and to keep core vaccinations current (or all that a licensed veterinarian would recommend appropriate for where you and your puppy reside). Buyer agrees to the responsibility of caring for the puppy daily. This is to include making sure he/she is kept groomed regularly (matts need to kept under control to prevent issues/damage to the dogs skin), fed a good quality dog kibble, watered on a daily basis, kept inside in a clean and safe environment, and is given daily exercise, appropriate for his/her body type.Your puppy will come with a Microchip Identification implant. The buyer agrees to register the microchip in their name within 14 day of taking home their puppy. Information on how to register the chip will be provided in your puppy’s binder. There may be a small one-time fee for registering the chip with the chip company. Your Signature Clear Submit

Puppy Videos Past Litters

Things to Do & to Avoid when first bringing your new Puppy Home. In order to protect your growing puppy's delicate health, there are many precautions you can and should take starting from the moment you have your puppy in your arms. As the breeder, Whimsy Doodles has been taking many of these precautions from the moment these puppies were born. Diseases such as Giardia and Parvo can be EASY to contract and hard to get rid of. These viral diseases can live on surfaces for 5-6 months . Some of these diseases can also be fatal if not treated early. Here are some things you can do to protect your puppy from these diseases: 1. Don't take the puppy out to public places such as pet stores, other stores or parks that allow dogs or put them in public grassy spots until after they have had ALL of their vaccinations. 2. Do not let people handle your puppy until 10 days after their final vaccines, usually around 16 wks.This is because people can carry these viral diseases on their clothing (and shoes). You never know if someone has had an ill pet or been in contact unknowingly with another animal who is carrying these diseases. It is also to protect you and your puppy from people who may get overly upset about being scratched or nipped by a very young puppy. 3. Do NOT buy toys from a pet store that lets dogs/puppies come in and try toys out. This is a HUGE risk of contracting Parvo. I have witnessed people allowing their dogs to lick and chew on toys and then throw them back on the shelf for someone else to buy. I always recommend washing any toy you purchase . 4. We keep our puppies on a schedule when it comes to feedings.Its recommended not to change this schedule much for the first 2 weeks. 5. Do NOT plan to pickup your puppy during a very busy time. Instead, it's highly recommended to pickup your puppy at a time when you have or can take a few days off work to let the puppy acclimate. It's important that they have someone home with them. 6. Remember that your contract requires a Vet checkup within 72 hrs after pickup. Its highly recommended to schedule this is advance of your puppy coming home. 7. The first three weeks are the hardest for your new puppy. It's very important to Remember the 3*3*3 Rules for puppies. (See Graphic below.) Just remember to give them time. Giving up and trying to rehome them (contract states Breeder is to be contacted first) is actually very scary and bad for the puppy. 8. Remember that jumping is really bad for a growing dogs joints and development. Practice the no jumping rule: no stairs, no jumping off anything including beds, decks, porches, in or out of cars for at least the year. 9. Do not let smaller children carry the puppy around or anyone that may be under the influence. So many bad things can happen with either scenario. If your child wants to hold the puppy, have them sit down to do so and stand near them at all times. This is also to protect your child. 10. Do not allow your puppy on furniture until it can get on and off the furniture on its own. A simple fall like this on the floor can do immeasurable damage. Puppy Preperation List: These are items you should purchase in advance and wash before use •10-14 inch flat collar, or appropriate size for your puppy's neck. (typically people start with a small size and move up as needed.) •6ft lead (no flexi lead leashes ever.) •15ft long line lead for training (can be found on Chewy & Amazon) •2 stainless steel puppy bowls (no elevated food bowls). Stainless Steel helps to keep white facial hair on dog's white. Its also healthier than plastic. •Training Treats (anything soft, small & healthy) •48 inch crate (no collars ever on while crated) •Puppy toys (no stuffed toys or anything they can tear apart and swallow except when supervised) • Kong brand chew toys. •Puppy Shampoo & Conditioner •Nail clippers.You can buy these online on Chewy or on Amazon. •Dog bed. Make sure to get one that is washable. •Baby gate or Indoor fencing (if needed). • Bladder Bites by Zesty Paws. (To help prevent UTI’s) Quick Vet Tips Do’s and Don’t’s: • 1st vet appointment- most often they want you to take a fresh stool sample. This is normal as your vet will want to test for parasites. • 1st vet appointment- DO NOT let your puppies feet touch the ground at the vet. The vet is a dirty place and you don’t know what potentially sick animal just walked in before your puppy who is not fully vaccinated. •Ask for either Heartguard chewables or Interceptor Plus. ***It is NOT recommended to use the all in one Heartworm, Flea/Tick/Parasite med to your puppy. This is prescribed by a vet but has killed puppies before •Do talk to your vet about the best practice for adding additional vaccinations such as Leptospirosis or Lyme disease. The most important thing, is to do the core vaccinations. (Parvo, Distemper, Adeno virus, Parainfluenza..core puppy vaccinations). •NO all-in-one pills for heartworm, intestinal parasites and flea/tick. These have sadly taken many dogs lives. Of course your puppy/dog needs all of these preventatives, however it is best to be given not in an all in one pill. Many of these all-in-one pills cause serious side effects. •There are natural repellents to help prevent or get rid of fleas and ticks, aside from medications. I highly recommend Wondercide Flea & Tick. You can purchase it on Amazon. •It is highly recommended to NOT spay/neuter your dog until they are adults. Some Vets will push for spay/neuter at 6 months of age. Simply let them know that you will not be spaying/neutering until they have reached maturity and the growth plates have closed. This is usually 12 months of age. For large breed dogs such as the Bernese Mountain Dog, this can be 18-20 months old.

We are a smaller family breeder of quality bred, healthy Mini Bernedoodles (mini means medium in size). These puppies are raised in our home with our family. All parents are Health tested. Puppies will come up to date with vet care and vaccinations up to 8 weeks old, microchipped and with a care package. They are able to go home at 8 weeks of age. Puppy Information Puppy Ba sics 101 Puppies are the most adorable animals and easily steal our hearts. Parenting a new puppy, however, is not always easy. Puppies will definitely challenge you and your rules as much as a human child will. I created this guide in order to help. When the time finally comes to bring your new puppy home for the first time, you’ll need to remember that this will be a significant lifestyle adjustment. There WILL be accidents to clean up. You’ll have to puppy proof your home, like you would baby proof, and you’ll have to adjust your schedule to a newborn puppy. This is going to be much like a human baby including being sleep-deprived . As you'll soon learn, a growing puppy needs much more than food & snuggles to thrive. I promise that while it may be a lot of work initially, it's more than worth the effort! Establishing rules, healthy habits and enforcing good behavior in those first few weeks and beyond will lay the foundation for a well rounded adult dog. Find a Good Vet The first thing you need to do is set up a vet appointment with your current or new vet of your choice. It's wise to figure out what vet you would like to use before bringing your puppy home. If you are unsure, reach out to local groomers, dog walkers and pet parent friends. The only public place you and your new puppy should venture out to, is to the vet for a checkup. This needs to be done with one 3 days of taking your new baby home. I highly suggest making this appointment in advance. Although your puppy has passed their very first health inspection, we want new owners to take their pup in right away. Its crucial to your puppies health to set up a good vaccination plan. This visit will help you take the first steps toward a good preventive health routine. Make the Most of Your First Vet Visit Puppy parents often have many questions about their new family member when visiting the vet for the first time. It's common to forget these questions. I suggest writing down a list of important questions for your vet ahead of time. If you are planning on switching your puppies food to another brand, discuss this with your vet in an effort to minimize your puppy having an upset tummy. Setting up a vaccination plan with your vet is crucial to the well being of your dog. During your first visit you can discuss safe options for controlling parasites, both external and internal, and make the best decision based on advice from your vet. Ask your vet about when they feel it is best that you should spay or neuter your dog. After your puppies initial shots are completed, your dog will then need yearly shots. A good source on learning about the vaccines needed and offered is: https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/puppy-shots-complete-guide/ The chart below is a comprehensive look at the vaccine timeline. This is what you can discuss with your vet as far as when to get shots and which shots are best for puppy. You will also have to comply with State Laws regarding vaccinations for dogs. Shop for Quality DOG Food Your puppy's body is growing rapidly. It is critical that your puppy has a quality food to help it grow properly. Selecting a food formulated for puppies instead of adult dogs is vital. We recommend a high-protein, smaller kibble puppy food (sometimes the smaller kibble is harder to find with large breed formulas) with a meat-based protein. I do recommend getting a large Breed formula based on the breeds of your puppy to aid in the proper growth of their joints and bones. Create a schedule for your puppy to eat. This will discourage picky habits and bad behaviors.Schedules are very good for puppies much like a human child. Feed at regular times in regular amounts and don’t leave food down for more than 10 to 20 minutes. Recommend feeding Times per day for the first year: Age 8 weeks-6 months - 3 meals per day 
 Age 6-12 months - 2 meals per day 
 After 12 months - 1-2 meals per day 
*Always check what your vet's recommendation is for your puppy *We feed our puppies Canidae Large Breed Lamb (All Life Stages) mixed with Science Diet Puppy for Large breeds. This helps with the growth of bones and joints, as well as proper body development, in breeds like the Bernese mountain dog and standard poodle. * You can switch to adult food for the dog at your vet’s discretion or one year of age. Establish a Bathroom Routine When starting the journey to house train your puppy, it is very important that you remain patient, and give your puppy plenty of positive reinforcement. Puppies naturally respond better to positive encouragement rather then negative angry reactions. It's probably a good idea to put a floor/carpet cleaning plan in place because accidents DO happen.
Until your puppy has had all of her vaccinations, its best to find a place outdoors that is inaccessible to other animals. This helps reduce the spread of viruses and diseases, like Parvo and Giardia. Give lots of positive reinforcement whenever your puppy does go potty outside and make sure to reward with a heathy treat. I always encourage people to word train as well. Dogs are very good with learning words. They can learn between 165-250 human language words. Use a marker word such as Yes or Good (it can be anything you want but be consistent with it.) when your puppy performs the wanted or good behavior. So in this case you would happily exclaim “GOOD potty outside” and give the treat at the same time. This teaches the puppy multiple things at once. Of course as equally important, refrain from punishing her when she has accidents indoors. Your puppy will have no idea what you are punishing her for. Also remember that puppies can NOT hold their bladders for long. A good rule of thumb is an hour per month of age. So at 8 weeks old (2 months) your puppy can hold it for roughly 2 hours, 3 months for 3 hours, 4 months for 4 hours etc.
Knowing when to take your puppy out is almost as important as giving her praise whenever she does eliminate outdoors. The most common times to take your puppy to potty are when you: 
*When you wake up & Right before bedtime. 
*Immediately after, your puppy eats or drinks a lot of water. Sometimes they may need a couple of minutes before going potty.
*When your puppy wakes up from a nap. 
*During and after physical activity. 
* * *If your puppy is peeing several times an hour, was previously doing well with potting mostly outside but suddenly that has changed, this can be a sign of a UTI. These are VERY common in young puppies. Take your puppy to your vet for treatment. Watch For Early Signs of Illness For the first few months, puppies are more susceptible to illnesses & diseases that can be serious if not caught in the early stages. If you observe any of the following symptoms in your puppy, it's time to contact the vet. 
 Lack of appetite 
Poor weight gain 
 Vomiting 
 Swollen or painful abdomen 
 Lethargy (tiredness) 
 Diarrhea 
(Soft stool can be normal the first week or so from the stress of re-homing & especially if you changed puppies food.
) Difficulty breathing 
 Wheezing or coughing 
 Pale gums 
 Swollen, red eyes or eye discharge 
Nasal discharge 
 Inability to pass urine or stool 
 Or any other changes in behavior that are alarming Teach Obedience Puppies have unique personalities. Remember that bringing your puppy home can be overwhelming for both of you. Your puppy now has to learn not only a new home but a new family. Establishing rules for the puppy to follow as well as everyone in the house when it comes to the puppy is critical in helping your puppy adjust. This will help to provide consistency for the training of your puppy and to establish expectations. Furthermore, by teaching your puppy good manners, you are setting your puppy up for a life of positive social interaction with everyone involved. In addition, obedience training will help forge a stronger bond between you and your puppy. Teaching your pup to obey commands such as sit, stay, down, and come will not only impress your friends, but these commands will help keep your dog safe and under control in any potentially hazardous situations. Many puppy owners find that obedience classes are a great way to train both owner and dog. Classes typically begin accepting puppies at age 4 to 6 months. If you are unsure of where to start with training, I suggest you reach out to friends and family to see who they recommend. You can even ask your vet for good recommendations. *Tip: Keep it positive. Positive reinforcement using small treats, has been proven to be vastly more effective than punishment. Vocal praise has been known to be just as effective! Be Sociable Just like obedience training, proper socialization during puppyhood helps avoid behavioral problems down the road. Remember you don’t want to take your puppy in public to often before all his shots are completed. Socialization classes are an excellent way to share positive social experiences with your puppy. Just be sure to ask your vet what kind of interaction is okay. Most socialization classes will take place during your puppy classes. Often times larger interacting classes will occur around the age of 16 weeks after most puppies have completed their final shots. At this time, it's generally ok to start puppy daycare which can also help with socialization. Remember the Adjustment Rule When you first bring your puppy home, remember the 3 3 3 rule. In order to fully adjust to its new home, new people/family and new routine, it takes time ! People often expect a new puppy to adjust in a few days. This just isn't how it happens. It takes a puppy: 3 Days to decompress & not feel overwhelmed or scared. 3 Weeks to feel comfortable enough to be themselves and let their guard down. 3 Months to feel a sense of security and gain trust. Puppy’s Age Recommended Vaccinations 6 — 8 weeks Distemper, Parvovirus, Bordetella 10 — 12 weeks DHPP (vaccines for distemper, adenovirus [hepatitis], parainfluenza, and parvovirus) Influenza, Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease (as recommended by veterinarian) 16 — 18 weeks DHPP, Rabies, Influenza, Lyme disease, Leptospirosis, Bordetella 12 — 16 months DHPP, Rabies, Coronavirus, Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease Every 1 — 2 years DHPP, Influenza, Coronavirus, Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease Every 1 — 3 years Rabies (as required by law)